", He also explained that users who break cam triggers or need the slings replaced can and should send them to Metolius for repair. Up To 30% Off Backcountry MTB Apparel .css-1081t4c{-webkit-text-decoration:underline;text-decoration:underline;}Shop Now, Basecamp Under The Stars Shop Coolers, Camp Furniture & More. What you see at the checkout is what you'll pay. He continued: "For whatever the reason, the bigger cams have a greater angle coming into the trigger, and it's harder on the radius. This tooth pattern is found on all but the smallest two cams and presumably helped the cam stay in place. Schneiter is an AMGA-certified guide, founder of Glenwood Climbing Guides, and very quick on his draws. They nowhave two new larger sizes to compliment your rack too! We paid close attention to how cams handled when being placed or cleaned and by various climbers to gain a sense of each cams ergonomics and ease of handling. For a full rack of Ultralight Master Cams thats over 5 ounces in weight savings. 10 sizes: #00 - 8, sizes 7 and 8 are new and very light for their size, Colour-Coded 11 mm Monster sling, thumb piece and trigger, Range Finder system assists you in choosing the correct size cam, CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. The trigger bar retracts an upper trigger bar but the cables connecting the two are protected by plastic. Bill Dodd following P1 on Sunburst Arete, ADK (5.8, 200'). The wide cam lobes create more surface contact with the rock. Though the most important endorsement is not necessarily a public one. If [we find a unit is] not safe, we'll still send it back, and tell people to not use it anymore.". Finally, they are not being sold as an expensive version of the original Master Cams and are instead replacing the original line at theoriginal price. Another time the Kevlar trigger on the second-to-largest unit, a No. This is where the Ultralight Master Cams truly shine. Additionally, Metolius used a new shark fin tooth pattern on the cam lobes to help the cam lobes find purchase in the rock and ideally increasing the holding power of the cam during a fall. The Range Finder dots and shark fin grooves are prominent features of the Master Cams. The unique Range Finder system uses colored dots to instantly show you whether the piece is properly cammed. Conrad Anker, leader of The North Face climbing team and world-renowned alpinist, relies on these cams while making first ascents in the toughest conditions on earth. I had also read on the website that Metolius suggests replacing the cam slings every five years but it's not obvious how to do so (you can't just tie a new sling on it like you can with original Master Cams). Small cam range Drawing on our decades of climbing, running, training and general experience in the mountains, wecontinue todevelop and expandthis collection of core products directly made by or designed and sourced by Rock + Run. In exchange for this small sacrifice, the cams give you increased holding power, and thus are more likely to stay in the rock than competing cams with higher camming angles. Banana Fingers and the Banana Fingers logo are trademarks of Banana Fingers Ltd. We use cookie on this site to enhance your user experience. Beal Iceline Unicore Golden Dry 8.1mm x 60m (2 Pack), Add any of these products to your cart and trigger FREE shipping for your entire order (if your cart total is less than 70), Rock + Run Finger Tape 2.5CM X 13.7M - White (3 Pack) 7.95, Rock + Run Boars Hair Brush 3 Pack for 11.95.
Light, low profile Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, Orbayu A Climbing Odyssey with Nina Caprez and Cdric Lachat, WTF is Dry Tooling? Please provide your cell phone number for shipping purposes. When this discrepancy is accounted for, the difference in range is close to 10%. My partners climb on Black Diamond Camalots, and chances are, youve got them on your rack too. Overall, the Ultralight Master Cams are a clear improvement over the previous generation: they're lower profile and noticeably lighter. All the latest deals, new releases, blog articles and more. United Kingdom. With knowledge and practice across the varied spectrum of commerce, our entrepreneurial spirit, aptitude coupled with a deep commitment to results are what sets us apart. 7 unit. When first switchingto the Ultralight Master Cams, this system makes finding the proper size a breeze, and when you hand your rack to a partner who is unfamiliar with the cams, he or she will surely be thankful for the feature. Ive grown accustomed to that question during this fall season. Sandahl first addressed my concerns about the broken trigger on the No. The lobes also have Range Finders with green-to-red dots along the sides that assist your placements. This Weeks Best Rock Climbing Gear Deals, Gear You Ought to Know: Sterling Hollow Block, What AshimaShiraishis 45-Foot Fall Can Teach Us About GriGris, Gear Guide: Best Climbing Equipment for New Climbers, Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of the Mad Rock Lifeguard, Black Diamond Ultralight Camalot vs. Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Comparison Guide, Free rock climbing PDFs on technique, training, knots, and more, 5 Winter Sport Safety Tips Everyone Should Know, A Few Key Relief Methods To Try if You Have Back Pain, Reasons Why You Should Go on a Solo Camping Trip, Ways You Can Make Your Next Camping Trip a Successful One. The cams offer an unprecedented level of solidity in placements. The camming range with the single axle design on the Ultralight Master Cams is smaller than the double axle cams but that difference is diminished with the smaller you go in cam size. 8, an equivalent size of a No. This sacrifices a small amount of range, though after comparing the numbers, we know that the range lost is mere millimeters on small placements. Touch device users, explore by touch or with swipe gestures. The camming angle, the angle at which the lobes of the cam contact the rock, is slightly smaller than most other cams on the market, especially the Camalots which have a relatively large camming angle. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven. The new Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are revolutionary in every way. The solidity of Ultralight Master Cam placements may be tough to quantify, but it is no mere accident. These cams went through a number of in-house tests for controlled and measurable metrics and were used by a number of climbers in the field with varying experience levels and interests. Prone to sticking, Patagonia Women's Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs: Stay dry in the mountains without sacrificing comfort or function, Fifty Years in Yosemite: The soft-spoken legacy of Werner Braun, "Mr. Astroman", Ocun WeBee Bigwall Harness: Bridging the gap between super light and bulky, Two new big wall routes completed on Alaska's Kichatna Spire, Fast times on Slovak Direct: Two teams speed up one of Denali's hardest routes in a day, The Trango Cirrus: A sturdy dual sport helmet, BioLite AlpenGlow Lanterns: Functional mood lighting for your tent, car or campsite. Some people argue that Camalots have a greater range and its true, but theyre also a lot heavier. The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams can serve as the backbone of a rack, providing sizes from tiny cracks to fist size cracks. When I climbed with a mix of the Ultralight Master Cams and Camalots, I consistently found myself reaching for the Ultralight Master Cams first, and Camalots second. Grooves milled into cam lobes have often been considered more a product of marketing than functionality. 7 (hand-size), outright broke while I attempted to use it as part of the belay. Just as the standards advanced then, they have advanced once more. The colour coded slings help for easy location and are easily replaceable after a couple of seasons of use. 60.00 Well, everyone also climbed on hemp ropes with hip belays before we had dynamic climbing rope and belay devices. Answers. Support. Free Shipping over 70. The Ultralight Master Cams are sleekly built units with a slender profile that fit well in narrow cracks. Metolius Range Finder system is included on sizes 2 through 8 in which colored dots along the edge of the cam lobes provide visual guidance for good or poor cam placement. EU fuss-free delivery! Largest size is wobbly Once youve climbed with them, you wont want to go back. Over several months of testinglet's just call it climbingfrom the sharp cracks in Vermont's crags to the sustained splitters in New York's Adirondacks (ADK) to Boulder, Colorado's smooth granite, these svelte units performed as well as single-axle cams are expected to. The same size range of Camalots (.3-3) tips the scale at 868g, making a full rack of Master Cams nearly 25% lighter. For example, the Camalot Ultralights start at $90 and go to $130 for a #4. One thing that's stayed the same is that both generations of cams have Range Finder markings on the cam heads. They are less stable than the other double axle cams tested, particularly in the larger sizes, and their ease of use and ergonomics scored lower with testers due to the lack of a thumb loop and a small trigger bar. Canadian crack expert Will Stanhope swears by the Ultralight Master Cams. To find out more about our privacy policy, including use of cookies, please visit our, #0: 45g, #1: 52g, #2: 55g, #3: 65g, #4: 75g, #5: 85g, #0: 10.0 - 15.0 mm, #1:12.5 - 18.0 mm #2: 15.5 - 22.5 mm, #3: 18.5 - 26.5 mm, #4: 23.5 - 33.5 mm #5: 28.0 - 39.5 mm, #0: 5kN, #1: 8kN, #2: 10kN, #3: 10kN, #4: 10kN, #5: 10kN. No additional delivery or customs fees will be added by the courier. At Press Play we deliver intelligent solutions that simplify the process for businesses to stay in step with the dynamically changing technology landscape. Regarding other broken parts of the unit, such as damaged cam springs, "if it's fixable, we'll fix it," he said. 8 cam, its lopsided design and low-tension trigger made the unit especially prone to walking. We spent a lot of time climbing single pitch cracks but an equal amount of time climbing multi-pitch routes in the mountains or in the desert. While the Ranger Finder feature is less helpful for climbers experienced with traditional gear, it may be beneficial for newer climbers or those getting a feel for proper cam placements. This piece will be sent back to Metolius for repair. Metolius has abandoned the use of these grooves and instead has created a shark fin pattern, specifically designed to help the cams hold in soft rock. The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam is an ultralight single stem camming device thats perfect for long trad routes and technical trad climbing. The broken cam spring on the 00 Ultralight Master Cam. Sorry, this product is out of stock. Ethically sourced Polish goose and duck down, combined with lightweight technical fabrics for exceptional warmth, weight and durability. After 15 to 20 minutes of work, my partner finally got it out. Door to door. Top to bottom: Red Ultralight Master Cam (75g), #13 Black Diamond Stopper (71g). Our robust yet cost-effective offerings are both tactile and experiential and support a myriad of corporate objectives. One drawback is the lack of a thumb loop, which aid climbers may scoff at as it prevents the ability to clip in short when moving in aiders. 1 Ultralight Master Cam placed in a vertical crack between dirt clumps. He is not sponsored by Metolius; he uses the Ultralight Master Cams because he considers them the best tool for the job. It is true, their single axle design does not offer the same expansion range as double axle cams. We looked for signs of walking and stability when placing cams in various cracks of all different sizes. This sling is also threaded into the unit instead of being attached below the thumb loop. Looking down on a perfectly placed #5 Ultralight Master Cam high on The Fastest Gun (5.10b, 500'). *Your purchase helps to support the work of Gear Institute. A full set of Master Cams from sizes 1-8 weighs in at 669g. So try the Metolius Master Cams, but be warned: your friends will always want to climb on your rack instead of theirs. Sign up toour newsletterfor first refusal on all thebiggest and best deals as they come in. (These marking help users identify the cam's sweet spot during placement.). We've [since] changed the programming and now that hole gets kissed with a radius tool to make sure that problem doesn't happen again. To truly understand the weight savings of Master Cams, grab a large nut, ideally a #11 Wallnut or #13 Stopper. Our team is highly motivated, fast-learning, task and detail-oriented with a proven ability to identify, analyze, and solve problems. senses. Ultralight Master Cams are made in the USA. To put it simply, these cams feel good to place. All cam stems will move once placed but the Ultralight Master Cams had a more freely moving stem than other cams tested. Home Gear Reviews Climbing Climbing Cams Metolius Ultralight Master Cam. This makes it easy to select the proper size despite the small loss in range. Tim A broken trigger on the #7 Ultralight Master Cam. Awhole20% lighter than the original range, theMetolius Ultralight Master Cams offera hugeweight saving when compared to other cams on the market, whichcan be massive if you need to carry a double set. By the time you get into the finger size and below is negligible or hard to notice. 2.95 Shipping for Orders up to 30. "Once we got two to three units back, we immediately looked at the issue and addressed the sharper radius." 7 cam was sharp, thus causing it to cut. The downside is that they arent suited to DYI repairs and will require most users to send them into Metolius to do a like for like replacement. Scott Bennett approaching the crux on the Naked Edge (5.11b, 460'). The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are a lightweight cam with ten sizes to put on your rack, from cams smaller than your fingertips to fist size. So I rarely reached for this cam as my go-to pieceit just felt wobbly. And with a solid scientific background influencing our approach, these skills, together with our ability to work with and through people, translate into a broad range of capabilities within a wide array of applications. The Ultralight Master Cam also features updated lobes with a new grip pattern for a better bite in soft rock, as well as all the other features youd expect from a Metolius Cam, like the classic range finder, super-flexible stem and on-point craftsmanship. The Range Finder system provides color coding to help new climbers find the right fit for cam placements. Here is where many claim the Master Cams fall short. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review and enter to select. According to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the original Master Cams. See a full technical comparison between the Metolius and Black Diamond Ultralight cams here. You save: 15% ( The flexible stems held up well despite when being loaded over edges in a horizontal placement. The Ultralight Master Cams offer a lot in the versatility department owing to their lightweight and the ten sizes available in the set, allowing climbers to fit from tiny cracks that are less than a fingertip to larger than hand size cracks. Machined holes in the trigger bars shed weight and help you grasp the cams securely. Gear You Ought to Know is a series that showcases underrated, under-appreciated, or just plain innovative gear in a discussion-based format. ). Finally, the slight loss in camming range holds another unforeseen benefit.
Other than the two biggest units, which still haven't grown on me, I'm happy with the performance of all the cams, even the tinniest ones. They're also very flexible, which helped me wiggle them into placements, and they were generally easy enough to clean. This movement was more pronounced on the bigger cams and careful use of extended slings or quickdraws was key to keep the cam in good position. Note: The small stereo hanging on Scott's harness likely weighs more than the rack of cams we brought on the route; so much for "light is right." Hence, they can be a good option for climbers on both single and multi-pitch as well as more far flung adventures in the alpine where weight is key. The cams quite literally feel like they bite into the rock. When the pitch calls for doubles in certain sizes, you can carry, on average, three more cams and still have the equivalent weight of a single rack of Camalots (and this number does not include the extra cam already in the set ofUltralight Master Cams!). Pros: The colour coded slings help for easy location and are easily replaceable after a couple of seasons of use. Metolius made it easy for you to replace the Monster Sling after a few seasons. From identification to implementation, Play Projects is the ideal partner to plan, manage and/or execute your projects. Well, the lovely folks at Metolius were so busy shaving weight, they forgot to raise the price. email: support@epictv.com, Company information: Banana Fingers T/A (trading as) EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United KingdomVAT GB930689110. Advice. This system helps the cams take up less space on the rack. Metolius also modified the teeth on the cam heads to a "shark-fin tooth pattern [for] optimized bite in soft rock," their website says. Metolius only recently started making the Ultralights in sizes 7 and 8, so perhaps that explains why those units didn't perform as well as the others regarding stability and trigger durability. However, sometimes it was hard to get them out because I'd over-cam them, especially with the micro sizes like #0 and #00, which is easy to do because of their limited cam range. "Light. The only piece of plastic on the entire cam protects metal trigger wires.
By continuing to browse this website, you are confirming your agreement. Shown here is a No. I like that," my partner said as he threw my gear sling over his shoulder. EpicTV Shop Returns: EpicTV, Unit 8 Whitehall Trading Estate, Gerrish Avenue, Bristol BS5 9DF, United Kingdom. Metolius cams have always been lighter, but the new Ultralights are just a whole level beyond that. Nurse turned full time traveler, rock climber, restless adventurer, and love drunk hippie who just can't ration the passion. Sierra climbing legend Peter Croft had this to say about the Ultralight Master Cams in this interview: The reason I really like Metolius cams in the first place is how light they are. The Ultralight Master Cams proved to be a durable and tough cam, scoring second only to the DMM Dragons in terms of durability. Our expertise is founded upon the core principles of learning, however, our promise to deliver is founded squarely upon our achievements. These cams have one more size in a full set than Camalots. But at least we had tunage. When doubling or tripling up sizes, such as for a desert splitter, the weight savings becomes more significant. In comparable placements the Ultralight Master Cams were more likely to move than its double axle competitors. New to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cam takes the weight off alpinists and trad climbers. If theres a piece of gear youd like to see featured,tell us. The new shark fin tooth patternmakes them performoptimally in soft rock and the flexible, single-stem unit with an optimised cam angle, offers increased holding power when climbing. The trigger bar is the narrowest trigger bar of the cams tested and proved more difficult than other cams to use. Ryan Sengebush is belaying. With ten sizes offered, climbers will benefit from significant weight savings when carrying a full rack of Ultralight Master Cams. Posted by Joel Ryan | Gear Feature, Journal, Trad. I called the company's Vice President, Brooke Sandahl, to learn more and to address their repair policy. Repairable, Cons: Red dots indicate a placement that is too tipped out or open to be effective, yellow dots are in the middle and the green dots show the prime placement range for the cam. The cam head on the Ultralight Master Cams is slightly wider than the Black Diamond X4s (left) and significantly narrower than the Black Diamond C4s (right). I thought the original Master Cams were the best cams on the market, and the new ultralights are stellar. We can notify you when this product is available: The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are a super light climbing cam range, great for tradders and alpinists. He was carrying a nearly complete set of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams intermixed with a collection of reduced-weight four-cam units (FCUs) by another brand, DMM. A subtle curve on the thumb bar createsa feeling of stability. The cam lobes are solidly constructed. These cams are 40% lighter than most cams, and their lobes use stops for extra security in cracks. When compared to a full rack of Ultralight Camalots (including a .3 Camalot, which is not available as an Ultralight), the Master Cams still emerge victorious, with a slight advantage of 24g. Even more impressive, the Master Cams manage to claim this weight victory with one more cam in the full set (8 total)than the Ultralight Camalots (7 total).
Once I shoved a #00 (with a range of .34-.47") into a tight crack on the overgrown route Fastest Shark (5.11) in the ADK, and nearly fixed the piece. Color-coded by size, the Ultralight Master Cam is easy to find on your rack so you can plug and send. But she had to rotate it in such a way that one of the cam springs snapped, rendering the piece useless until repaired (if that was even an option, I didn't know). Through Press Play, companies have an opportunity to massage customers??
When I started climbing, I picked up the seemingly ubiquitous Camalots. While similar in function to the X4s, the Ultralight Master Cams take up less room on the harness and are dramatically lighter. Everyone climbs with them, so arent they obviously the best choice? We DO NOT offer in-store purchase, onlyClick & Collect. The Ultralight Master Cams have a number of features that may pique the interest of shopping climbers in addition to their lightweight. For small cams, it comes out to a millimeter or two. Hence, for the next few months, I ended up climbing with a near-full set. "And we'll tune up your cams and inspect them to make sure they're safe. Later, while jamming hands/wide hands routes like On the Loose (5.10), in the ADK, and The Rose (5.10) in Bolton, Vermont, I discovered that my least favorite size was the No. The lack of a thumb loop is a drawback for many but instead Metolius uses a thumb piece that has a lot of surface area and is surrounded by an 11 mm sling to help provide purchase when racking or placing. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven, "The hole hadn't been radiused (rounded)," he said from the company's headquarters in Bend, Oregon. In the world of climbing gear, a 25% weight reduction is usually cause for a 25% price increase. They are lighter than an average rack of quickdraws (900g for 10 draws vs. 669g for a rack of Master Cams). [Photo] Chris Van Leuven. The trigger wires are made with Kevlar, thus avoiding the fate of metal cables used in most trigger wires which became frayed and broken with extensive use. Opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect those of Moja Gear. 50.95 And, now that I'm aware of Metolius's repair policy, my broken units won't have to collect dust.
[Photo] Chris Van Leuven. When you take these cams up, instead of the equivalent sizes of Camalots, you will have one more piece to place on the pitch. Be the first one to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven. Now throw it away, because the #4 Ultralight Master Cam covers the same size at almost the exact same weight. Durability is good with solid cam lobe and stem construction and tough Kevlar trigger wires. Their feedback provided the information to best understand how each cam performed. He explained that the cams in my set were from an early batch, within the first few hundred units made, and that the hole where the Kevlar cord passed through on the No. Jonathan Siegrist plugs a green Master Cam into a crack at Smith Rock. And in a time when the need exists to resonate across all, simply Press Play; you'll never be at a loss for what to say. Down two cams, I wanted to know what I could do to get the pieces repaired. Clipping these cams inspires confidence, and this is no accident; Metolius has designed these cams to be a perfect placement every time they leave your harness. "All our cams can be re-slung for a nominal fee," he said. Placing the No. Shoreline Business Park, Sandside, Cumbria, LA7 7BF. An updated version of the original Metolius Master Cam, the Ultralight Master Cam can now claim to be the lightest cam on the market, thanks to new holes in the trigger, a slightly shorter sling, and a redesigned thumb-piece that doesnt require a cable loop. A cursory glance at the ranges listed by Black Diamond and Metolius is shamefully deceiving. 5 Videos Worth Wasting Time With, View Lowest Prices: Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Set, Best Holiday Gifts for Climbers All Under 20 Bucks, See a full technical comparison between the Metolius and Black Diamond Ultralight cams here, Find the lowest prices on sets of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, Find the lowest prices on individual Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. Our collective professional experience demonstrates skills that are broadly transferable. 5 DMM Dragon 2, didn't give me that warm feeling I was used to when otherwise slotting a big camming unit. We thoroughly tested the Ultralight Master Cams in the field and during in-house testing for its stability and resistance to moving or walking after being placed and had mixed results. The thumb bar has essentially been completely redesigned to save weight. Looking at the cams side by side, I noticed other differences are noticeable: the swages are smaller on the new units, for example. Metolius gives you the usable range representing the range in which cams can be safely used, rather than the deceptive industry standard of reporting the absolute minimum and maximum expansion range which covers so overcammed that you will never get it back to completely tipped out. Get our awesome climbing newsletter, delivered weekly. EPICTV, the EPICTV logo and all other EPICTV marks are trademarks of Elisa Oyj. The cable stems thicken with the larger sizes, so even the largest cams are a breeze to place (climbers with .75 X4s are probably familiar with the floppy feeling of cams that lack this essential feature). One note on the color coding for the sizes of cams thats neither good nor bad and up to the buyer to decide: Metolius cams dont copy the color coding popularized by Black Diamond. The above factors caused the Ultralight Master Cams to score lower than many other cams for ergonomics. At 65 grams (2.3 ounces) for size 3 (orange), the Ultralight Master Cams are some of the lightest cams tested. +ONE turns Insight into Advantage. Anyone who has broken a trigger wire on a cam during a long climb can attest to the value of the durable Kevlar trigger wires that during our testing proved to be long lasting. What sets the Ultralights apart from the earlier generation of Master Cam FCUs is that these units have a thinner, 11mm sling instead of a 13mm sling. 9.05 For larger cams in which the difference is greater, so is the sweet spot in which cams can be safely placed. The cam stops are milled into the lobes, making the cams more resilient and difficult to damage even in the event that they do pull out. Having ten cams in the set allow climbers to have a full run of cams to provide consistency on a rack and the weight of the Ultralights are some of the scantest out of cams tested. The subtle design features of these cams are seemingly endless. But the Ultralight Master Cams werent the least stable cam in our testing and particularly during in-house testing we were able to observe the freely moving stem of the cam that allowed the cam lobes to stay in place while the stem moved as rope was pulled through a carabiner attached to the sling.