perhaps better to go on the attack against the slobs who wouldnt know the difference between a tie clip and a paper clip?
This was in direct contrast to previous decades, which had a uniform of sorts that consisted of a shirt, jacket, trousers, waistcoat, and so on.
This can speed up the process of the crease flattening out as it works its way down the leg and, with no clear guide, it can be harder to re-press this crease each time. With all six of these points in mind, then, where does that leave us? In addition to allowing for a greater range of movement in the leg of the trouser, they also shape the trouser leg and allow the fabric to drape more attractively. They arent cheap, but quality never is, and the price is always soon forgotten.
There have been other influences such as mass produced poor quality clothes, manufacturers trying to save money through poor quality materials and/or designs (hence the skinny leg or jogger style pants with extreme tapers) and changing fashion trends and/or societal changes. When you buy something using the affiliate links on our site, we may earn a small commission. Look at Graham for an examplehes said on Styleforum that his body type is quintessentially slightly overweight, like many people, yet the trousers create a magical slimming effect. I had to sell my line-up of gray flannels earlier this winter after some weight gain and subsequent body shape changes from the workouts I was doing to wrestle that back down, so I ordered a pair of charcoal flannels in my preferred mid-high-rise flat front during the last seasonal sale of the year. most importantly they were able to put 17.5 collar on 16.5 body. I am down to my last two pair of pleated trousers here in closet. On a slim man like Preston, pleated pants can have a way of emphasising a very slim build just as slim fit on a more solid man (think someone with more of an endomorph build like Sven Raphael Schneider) emphasises wider legs or larger mid-section. There is often a correlation between popular music and fashion. The charcoal flannels pair well with everything. I agree, pleats havent completely vanished from Earth along with hats, dress shoes or vests/waistcoats and whatever else GG is claiming men have stopped wearing. I tend to agree with most of the reasons offered as to why pleats are (if you prefer) becoming less frequently seen; apart from mass clothing manufacturing with cheap poor quality and poor fitting clothes, I think along the same lines as you about correct wear (or dressing appropriately as opposed to ultra or sloppy casual nearly 24/7) being the main reason. Flat front pants emphasize the slightest trace of belly and are infinitely less comfortable.
With that out of the way, in order to understand where pleats went, we have to know first where they came from. If youre just getting into tailored menswear and want a single helpful guide to building a trend-proof wardrobe, When you arrive, just hang them up and if the slee, Chatting with Fabio and Martin from Anglo-Italian, Chatting with Victor of his own label Besnard duri, When we tan into @andreasweinas at the @100hands s, Richard from @tylerandtylerbham at #pittiuomo102 t, New post on my site: a brief overview of tobacco l. Menswear Musings uses cookies to help in the creation of more and better content. This article came at the right time. Today, Im wearing a pair of pleated pants. My bespoke suits trousers have pleats as well as my dress trousers. Pleats are ridiculous. I wore my pleated trousers with a notched lapel jacket (sorry Sven it seemed like a good idea at the time and the pix were great) to my only daughters wedding in Memphis this past November. But with the right, heavy, draping fabric, there is great visual appeal in that pleat when it peeks out from behind your jacket. If we follow the main thread of menswear casualization here then, we come to our fourth main reason for today, which is the association between pleated trousers and nerd characters. For one thing, directly following up on our sixth and final point, men whose body type doesnt conform well to skinny or slim-fit styles, such as Raphael for example, love wearing pleated pants for the extra room and range of movement they provide. Id suggest our business casual guide is a great place to start, as it holds some of the best tips for dressing well without overdoing it. You say pleated trousers are increasingly difficult to find? Reviews & Articles About Classic Men's Clothing & Accessories, Copyright 20102022 Gentleman's Gazette LLC All Rights Reserved Terms of Service & Accessibility Policy Privacy Policy, 6 Reasons Why Men Stopped Wearing Pleated Pants, 1. I dont own a suit or a pair of dress or casual, (not jeans) trousers that dont have pleats. Anyway, Im fine with these single reverse pleat trousers and could see myself buying more in the future in certain special fabrics. To go along with these khakis then, Ive chosen the rest of my outfit in a simple blue and brown color feel. That being said though, personal taste is an entirely different part of the equation and probably best saved for another article. Otherwise they balloon around the front section and dont look at all fitted.
Some trouser pleats are sewn directly into the waistband and other trouser styles, like those with a Hollywood waist, forgo the separate waistband altogether. Pleats are being pushed by the fashion media because they have to follow a rule that says style must change every 15 years. Our sixth and final reason for today why pleated pants have been on the wane is modern-day clothing trends. While I could have gone with a full suit that incorporated pleats in the trousers, I decided to go for a more casual overall look. Unfortunately, none of these patterning alterations occur in any tailoring books I own, many going back decades. It gives me breathing room for my boys below the waist (BBTW).
I grew up in the Seventis as a teenager and the biggest influence on me and my friends was Bryan Ferry..#0s Styling proper dress and making the effortAll things that count not today. Meanwhile, with a pleat at the top of your trousers, not only do you have a clearer guide for pressing this crease, but the extra fabric will also ensure that it stays in for a longer period of time. Dont get me wrong they look great on the gals but like padded shoulders in the 80s a trend more often dominated by womens designers. I would never think of having them with pleats; they wouldnt look right. More power to whoever wants to wear them, but I simply cant do it. Indeed, throughout most of history, trousers were predominantly flat-fronted. This isnt an organic style thats evolving its just fashion. Whats illustrated here is that clothing becomes linked to where you wear it and why. Brown Eidos donegal tweed jacket with Spier and Mackay flat-front charcoal flannel trousers, still my preference. Indeed, the subtle and slim silhouette of the 1920s had evolved into a fuller, more angular hourglass shape by the 1930s, and its at this point that pleated pants made a home for themselves in the closet of almost every man the world over, both as part of a suit and more casually through the 40s, 50s, and 60s. Crew) are now offering pants with pleats, something I had never seen until ~3 years ago. My Dockers (and my suit pants) all have pleats. These longer trousers were cut close to the body and were held up by suspenders or braces. Say hello to Natalinos double reverse pleat trouser. This particular pair is made in Italy (while other pairs have been [], why dont you give yeossal a try? These days, pleated trousers are more commonly associated with the workplace. My 8 wale Brisbane corduroys, Moleskin and chinos are all plain front. And from the comfort standpoint, they were great. Natalino, by the way, also has some twill trousers in their normal single-pleat, high-rise fit: one in cream cavalry twill, then covert twill in navy and gray. By continuing to browse the site, you consent to their use.
these higher-rise, single-reverse-pleat Spier & Mackay covert twill trousers. Did you happen to dip into David Bowies interest in (obsession with) pleated bottoms during your research? I still prefer the flat front of the charcoal flannels I bought. Back in the heyday of pleated pants, clothing was typically made from sturdier stuff and, even though central heating was becoming increasingly more common, many men were still wearing garments made from fabric that was heavier than what wed experienced today. My imagination or are the pants in the Sven and Preston photos a tad short from the shoes? Very young, thin guys can kind of get away with them, but even then, I dont think theyre flattering. I have no scientific data for that other than that seems to be how its done, so it looks right. Having lived through the last 40 years as a custom tailor and patternmaker, it appeared to me that when menswear again became slim fitting the patternmakers didnt know how to properly cut trim clothing including unconstructed jackets and instead just made things tight. Im a bit older than you gentlemen and I recall that flat-front tighter trousers came into fashion in the early 60s with the British invasion pop music trend. After all, for those in the know about the benefits of pleats, there simply isnt quite anything like the look that a well-made pair of pleated trousers will provide. Rather, its about educating them on classic mens wear, how to incorporate it into their wardrobes and how to wear it without looking like costumes or looking like clowns. Ie. I am not bragging or making this a big deal (no pun intended) but the fact is when you have a high quality material pleated, it remains in the field of classic wear, not outdated fashion. And really, who wants to be thought of as an outcast? The other pair is a ridiculously roomy pair of Bills Khakis which make me give tribute to the late great General Douglas (rip) MacArthur. Contrary to common misconceptions there is a difference between skinny and slim fit trousers. Being from Boston I was brought up Brooks Brothers, but I changed course when I joined the naval service. But theyre not influencer-types, theyre just dudes who like clothes and post what theyre wearing. Just yesterday I was bemoaning skinny legged pants with a friend. And construction needs to support all of this to make it work. Skinny legged pants will meet their judgment day, as well. This is true for as far back as clothing goes, from the Ancient Egyptians to the French Courts, all the way up to today. So, those who were sticking to the older, more conservative styles came to embody the nerd archetype. Also possible, as with a great many things, especially post-80s, pleats became a much more feminine thing. His pants are often either too short or puddling at the hems, which also cheapen the look. Both were always impeccably tailored, whether formally or informally dressed, and quite often wore exquisite trim pleated pants, usually in a lightweight tropical wool suiting (sorry, Preston I also had a wonderful pair of cotton/rayon pleated Girbaud pants in the day which were very lightweight). I think the ubiquitous advertisements with skinny, athletic guys in these suits makes them believe that theyll seem skinnier in a skinnier suit fashion. But they are fashionable, and fashions, once they become dated, are suddenly viewed objectively. Anyway, this puts the lie to the idea that pleated pants cant also look trim, though it does help to have a crisp fabric. But lo and behold, weve jumped in the deep end. Whether theyre worn as part of a suit or as a separate piece of clothing, theres no denying the mix of comfort and timeless elegance that one gets when wearing them. But, of course, the 1980s was greatly influenced by the Golden Age of menswear and so, pleats made a return in both casual wear and business and formal wear. Meanwhile, also fitting the color feel and the casual tone my shoes are a pair of tobacco brown suede loafers from Scarosso.
Why did men stop treating ladies as ladiesetc.. In fact, quite a lot of men have wide thighs. Cavour has covert twills as well, in their more mainstream mid-low rise with the single baby pleat. Played British Blues-based guitar most of my life! Therefore, its easier, cheaper, and more attractive overall to simply offer flat-fronted styles in modern slim-fit trousers. In all these cases, you can see how the clothing of the characters has been chosen to emphasize the fact that they arent cool. Hi Ken, thanks for reaching out, and congratulations on the novel! Preston does not seem to enjoy well pressed trousers, which has the unfortunate effect of making them look cheaper than they probably are. And, of course, the alternative to pleated pants is the flat-fronted trouser, which is pretty self-explanatory.
Around this time, it became very uncool if you werent in on the latest clothing trends. Admittedly, though, thats a little less comfortable than pleated trousersafter all, pleats serve a functional purpose, which is to add extra fabric in the front that makes sitting down easier/more comfortable. Also, having soccer legs myself, fit through the thighs has always been an issue for me and my sons. the horrendously baggy double Dockers of the late 90s and early aughts. Coming into fashion around the 1860s, they were at first used mostly for sporting events and, while they were flat-fronted around the waist, they did feature darts at the bottom to keep a close fit around the knee. Derek at Die, Workwear wrote a couple years ago.
An Italian aesthetic of close-fitting suits, motor scooters, and sunglasses were all the rage. What office? He loves the transformational power and craftsmanship of menswear. Of course, this works best when the pleat is properly cut and sewn into the trousers, but this does require a bit more fabric, as we can see in the roomier pleated pants of yesteryear. In the office? Basically, one cannot simply do the latter and have anything fit properly. I think they look better than flat fronts and they are a big plus as far as comfort. Suit retailers (like SuitSupply or Ralph Lauren) or more casual wear (like J. The Regency Era, specifically from about 1811 to 1820 or so, saw the popularization of longer trouser legs as compared to the breeches that had come before them. For a notable entertainment figure of the 30s and 40s, we can look at Fred Astaire, who was famous for his elaborate dance routines in top hat and tails and also for a relaxed elegance elsewhere, even in a suit, and he was a frequent wearer of pleated trousers which, of course, were the standard at the time. Spier and Mackay flat-front charcoal flannel trousers, Flannel Trousers at Spier & Mackay Menswear Musings, Natalinos Accessible, Authentic Neapolitan Tailoring Menswear Musings, Cavours Full-Blown Neapolitan Tailoring at a Steal, Natalinos Comfortable, Authentic Neapolitan Tailoring, The Anthologys Remix of Golden Age Glamour With Contemporary Fit and Finish, Mature, Authentic Tailoring From No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara, Anglo-Italians Pitch Perfect Blend of English Sobriety and Italian Panache, SuitSupplys Excellent Hidden in Plain Site Jort Line, Ring Jackets Easy, Comfortable Tailoring, Spier & Mackays Affordable Take on Neapolitan Tailoring, Proper Cloths Fast, Custom Fit Tailored Clothing, Guide to Make the Most of Your Proper Cloth Custom Shirt Purchase, The Radical Act of Perfecting the Basics, The Unassailable Appeal of the Oxford Cloth Button Down Shirt, How to Get Free Return Shipping From PayPal, Get Yourself a Black-Dial Steel Sports Watch. And while pleats, as we know them today, did come about in the 1920s, there was also a fad for pleat-like styles a hundred years earlier in the 1820s. Pleats Can Be Unflattering, If Cut Poorly, 5. So when will you wear them? Still tapering down to a remarkably narrow 15-3/8 inch leg opening, theyre trying their mightiest to maintain a slim appearance with that ginormous top block introduced by the pleats. The fabric blows me away.
Do you wear pleated pants, or have you done so in the past? Therefore, my trousers today are khakis made from a more modern, lightweight fabric. You? Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I suppose both men and women have been utilizing pleats in their clothing for hundreds of years at this point, but the 80s did see pleats as a big feature on womens pants too. But, as these trouser styles began to widen around the leg, that opened the door to the fashion fad known as the Cossack trouser, which featured many pleats at the front of the trousers similar to a too-tight drawstring on a pair of pajama pants.
Despite the pleat, I wanted to give them a try. Theyve got the wrong body type a bit fleshy, with heavy or wide thighs. Do you think theyll die out? Maybe a bit longer with a bit of a break? But of course, I prefer flat front over pleats.
To combat this, trouser stretching and creasing services were offered and, by the 1880s, men were stretching and creasing their trousers themselves with at-home devices. am now maybe on board? You mentioned youre shorter, which indicates youve put some thought into what you think looks flattering on you. I personally like forward pleats better, probably because theyre not as common. Theyre what make dress pants, dressy. How anyone can be counter culture and mainstream at the same time baffles many even in his absence? The fashion drivers that have taken this away forgot that they owned a pair, and if they dod not they overlooked those that do! I think I ended up with size 32-ish rise, 39 waist and I think 40 trousers But, as denim, sneakers, and bold T-shirts were making waves in the world of fashion in the 80s and 90s, it became increasingly obvious if you werent in on these trends.
This was in direct contrast to previous decades, which had a uniform of sorts that consisted of a shirt, jacket, trousers, waistcoat, and so on.
This can speed up the process of the crease flattening out as it works its way down the leg and, with no clear guide, it can be harder to re-press this crease each time. With all six of these points in mind, then, where does that leave us? In addition to allowing for a greater range of movement in the leg of the trouser, they also shape the trouser leg and allow the fabric to drape more attractively. They arent cheap, but quality never is, and the price is always soon forgotten.
There have been other influences such as mass produced poor quality clothes, manufacturers trying to save money through poor quality materials and/or designs (hence the skinny leg or jogger style pants with extreme tapers) and changing fashion trends and/or societal changes. When you buy something using the affiliate links on our site, we may earn a small commission. Look at Graham for an examplehes said on Styleforum that his body type is quintessentially slightly overweight, like many people, yet the trousers create a magical slimming effect. I had to sell my line-up of gray flannels earlier this winter after some weight gain and subsequent body shape changes from the workouts I was doing to wrestle that back down, so I ordered a pair of charcoal flannels in my preferred mid-high-rise flat front during the last seasonal sale of the year. most importantly they were able to put 17.5 collar on 16.5 body. I am down to my last two pair of pleated trousers here in closet. On a slim man like Preston, pleated pants can have a way of emphasising a very slim build just as slim fit on a more solid man (think someone with more of an endomorph build like Sven Raphael Schneider) emphasises wider legs or larger mid-section. There is often a correlation between popular music and fashion. The charcoal flannels pair well with everything. I agree, pleats havent completely vanished from Earth along with hats, dress shoes or vests/waistcoats and whatever else GG is claiming men have stopped wearing. I tend to agree with most of the reasons offered as to why pleats are (if you prefer) becoming less frequently seen; apart from mass clothing manufacturing with cheap poor quality and poor fitting clothes, I think along the same lines as you about correct wear (or dressing appropriately as opposed to ultra or sloppy casual nearly 24/7) being the main reason. Flat front pants emphasize the slightest trace of belly and are infinitely less comfortable.
With that out of the way, in order to understand where pleats went, we have to know first where they came from. If youre just getting into tailored menswear and want a single helpful guide to building a trend-proof wardrobe, When you arrive, just hang them up and if the slee, Chatting with Fabio and Martin from Anglo-Italian, Chatting with Victor of his own label Besnard duri, When we tan into @andreasweinas at the @100hands s, Richard from @tylerandtylerbham at #pittiuomo102 t, New post on my site: a brief overview of tobacco l. Menswear Musings uses cookies to help in the creation of more and better content. This article came at the right time. Today, Im wearing a pair of pleated pants. My bespoke suits trousers have pleats as well as my dress trousers. Pleats are ridiculous. I wore my pleated trousers with a notched lapel jacket (sorry Sven it seemed like a good idea at the time and the pix were great) to my only daughters wedding in Memphis this past November. But with the right, heavy, draping fabric, there is great visual appeal in that pleat when it peeks out from behind your jacket. If we follow the main thread of menswear casualization here then, we come to our fourth main reason for today, which is the association between pleated trousers and nerd characters. For one thing, directly following up on our sixth and final point, men whose body type doesnt conform well to skinny or slim-fit styles, such as Raphael for example, love wearing pleated pants for the extra room and range of movement they provide. Id suggest our business casual guide is a great place to start, as it holds some of the best tips for dressing well without overdoing it. You say pleated trousers are increasingly difficult to find? Reviews & Articles About Classic Men's Clothing & Accessories, Copyright 20102022 Gentleman's Gazette LLC All Rights Reserved Terms of Service & Accessibility Policy Privacy Policy, 6 Reasons Why Men Stopped Wearing Pleated Pants, 1. I dont own a suit or a pair of dress or casual, (not jeans) trousers that dont have pleats. Anyway, Im fine with these single reverse pleat trousers and could see myself buying more in the future in certain special fabrics. To go along with these khakis then, Ive chosen the rest of my outfit in a simple blue and brown color feel. That being said though, personal taste is an entirely different part of the equation and probably best saved for another article. Otherwise they balloon around the front section and dont look at all fitted.
Some trouser pleats are sewn directly into the waistband and other trouser styles, like those with a Hollywood waist, forgo the separate waistband altogether. Pleats are being pushed by the fashion media because they have to follow a rule that says style must change every 15 years. Our sixth and final reason for today why pleated pants have been on the wane is modern-day clothing trends. While I could have gone with a full suit that incorporated pleats in the trousers, I decided to go for a more casual overall look. Unfortunately, none of these patterning alterations occur in any tailoring books I own, many going back decades. It gives me breathing room for my boys below the waist (BBTW).
I grew up in the Seventis as a teenager and the biggest influence on me and my friends was Bryan Ferry..#0s Styling proper dress and making the effortAll things that count not today. Meanwhile, with a pleat at the top of your trousers, not only do you have a clearer guide for pressing this crease, but the extra fabric will also ensure that it stays in for a longer period of time. Dont get me wrong they look great on the gals but like padded shoulders in the 80s a trend more often dominated by womens designers. I would never think of having them with pleats; they wouldnt look right. More power to whoever wants to wear them, but I simply cant do it. Indeed, throughout most of history, trousers were predominantly flat-fronted. This isnt an organic style thats evolving its just fashion. Whats illustrated here is that clothing becomes linked to where you wear it and why. Brown Eidos donegal tweed jacket with Spier and Mackay flat-front charcoal flannel trousers, still my preference. Indeed, the subtle and slim silhouette of the 1920s had evolved into a fuller, more angular hourglass shape by the 1930s, and its at this point that pleated pants made a home for themselves in the closet of almost every man the world over, both as part of a suit and more casually through the 40s, 50s, and 60s. Crew) are now offering pants with pleats, something I had never seen until ~3 years ago. My Dockers (and my suit pants) all have pleats. These longer trousers were cut close to the body and were held up by suspenders or braces. Say hello to Natalinos double reverse pleat trouser. This particular pair is made in Italy (while other pairs have been [], why dont you give yeossal a try? These days, pleated trousers are more commonly associated with the workplace. My 8 wale Brisbane corduroys, Moleskin and chinos are all plain front. And from the comfort standpoint, they were great. Natalino, by the way, also has some twill trousers in their normal single-pleat, high-rise fit: one in cream cavalry twill, then covert twill in navy and gray. By continuing to browse the site, you consent to their use.
these higher-rise, single-reverse-pleat Spier & Mackay covert twill trousers. Did you happen to dip into David Bowies interest in (obsession with) pleated bottoms during your research? I still prefer the flat front of the charcoal flannels I bought. Back in the heyday of pleated pants, clothing was typically made from sturdier stuff and, even though central heating was becoming increasingly more common, many men were still wearing garments made from fabric that was heavier than what wed experienced today. My imagination or are the pants in the Sven and Preston photos a tad short from the shoes? Very young, thin guys can kind of get away with them, but even then, I dont think theyre flattering. I have no scientific data for that other than that seems to be how its done, so it looks right. Having lived through the last 40 years as a custom tailor and patternmaker, it appeared to me that when menswear again became slim fitting the patternmakers didnt know how to properly cut trim clothing including unconstructed jackets and instead just made things tight. Im a bit older than you gentlemen and I recall that flat-front tighter trousers came into fashion in the early 60s with the British invasion pop music trend. After all, for those in the know about the benefits of pleats, there simply isnt quite anything like the look that a well-made pair of pleated trousers will provide. Rather, its about educating them on classic mens wear, how to incorporate it into their wardrobes and how to wear it without looking like costumes or looking like clowns. Ie. I am not bragging or making this a big deal (no pun intended) but the fact is when you have a high quality material pleated, it remains in the field of classic wear, not outdated fashion. And really, who wants to be thought of as an outcast? The other pair is a ridiculously roomy pair of Bills Khakis which make me give tribute to the late great General Douglas (rip) MacArthur. Contrary to common misconceptions there is a difference between skinny and slim fit trousers. Being from Boston I was brought up Brooks Brothers, but I changed course when I joined the naval service. But theyre not influencer-types, theyre just dudes who like clothes and post what theyre wearing. Just yesterday I was bemoaning skinny legged pants with a friend. And construction needs to support all of this to make it work. Skinny legged pants will meet their judgment day, as well. This is true for as far back as clothing goes, from the Ancient Egyptians to the French Courts, all the way up to today. So, those who were sticking to the older, more conservative styles came to embody the nerd archetype. Also possible, as with a great many things, especially post-80s, pleats became a much more feminine thing. His pants are often either too short or puddling at the hems, which also cheapen the look. Both were always impeccably tailored, whether formally or informally dressed, and quite often wore exquisite trim pleated pants, usually in a lightweight tropical wool suiting (sorry, Preston I also had a wonderful pair of cotton/rayon pleated Girbaud pants in the day which were very lightweight). I think the ubiquitous advertisements with skinny, athletic guys in these suits makes them believe that theyll seem skinnier in a skinnier suit fashion. But they are fashionable, and fashions, once they become dated, are suddenly viewed objectively. Anyway, this puts the lie to the idea that pleated pants cant also look trim, though it does help to have a crisp fabric. But lo and behold, weve jumped in the deep end. Whether theyre worn as part of a suit or as a separate piece of clothing, theres no denying the mix of comfort and timeless elegance that one gets when wearing them. But, of course, the 1980s was greatly influenced by the Golden Age of menswear and so, pleats made a return in both casual wear and business and formal wear. Meanwhile, also fitting the color feel and the casual tone my shoes are a pair of tobacco brown suede loafers from Scarosso.
Why did men stop treating ladies as ladiesetc.. In fact, quite a lot of men have wide thighs. Cavour has covert twills as well, in their more mainstream mid-low rise with the single baby pleat. Played British Blues-based guitar most of my life! Therefore, its easier, cheaper, and more attractive overall to simply offer flat-fronted styles in modern slim-fit trousers. In all these cases, you can see how the clothing of the characters has been chosen to emphasize the fact that they arent cool. Hi Ken, thanks for reaching out, and congratulations on the novel! Preston does not seem to enjoy well pressed trousers, which has the unfortunate effect of making them look cheaper than they probably are. And, of course, the alternative to pleated pants is the flat-fronted trouser, which is pretty self-explanatory.
Around this time, it became very uncool if you werent in on the latest clothing trends. Admittedly, though, thats a little less comfortable than pleated trousersafter all, pleats serve a functional purpose, which is to add extra fabric in the front that makes sitting down easier/more comfortable. Also, having soccer legs myself, fit through the thighs has always been an issue for me and my sons. the horrendously baggy double Dockers of the late 90s and early aughts. Coming into fashion around the 1860s, they were at first used mostly for sporting events and, while they were flat-fronted around the waist, they did feature darts at the bottom to keep a close fit around the knee. Derek at Die, Workwear wrote a couple years ago.
An Italian aesthetic of close-fitting suits, motor scooters, and sunglasses were all the rage. What office? He loves the transformational power and craftsmanship of menswear. Of course, this works best when the pleat is properly cut and sewn into the trousers, but this does require a bit more fabric, as we can see in the roomier pleated pants of yesteryear. In the office? Basically, one cannot simply do the latter and have anything fit properly. I think they look better than flat fronts and they are a big plus as far as comfort. Suit retailers (like SuitSupply or Ralph Lauren) or more casual wear (like J. The Regency Era, specifically from about 1811 to 1820 or so, saw the popularization of longer trouser legs as compared to the breeches that had come before them. For a notable entertainment figure of the 30s and 40s, we can look at Fred Astaire, who was famous for his elaborate dance routines in top hat and tails and also for a relaxed elegance elsewhere, even in a suit, and he was a frequent wearer of pleated trousers which, of course, were the standard at the time. Spier and Mackay flat-front charcoal flannel trousers, Flannel Trousers at Spier & Mackay Menswear Musings, Natalinos Accessible, Authentic Neapolitan Tailoring Menswear Musings, Cavours Full-Blown Neapolitan Tailoring at a Steal, Natalinos Comfortable, Authentic Neapolitan Tailoring, The Anthologys Remix of Golden Age Glamour With Contemporary Fit and Finish, Mature, Authentic Tailoring From No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara, Anglo-Italians Pitch Perfect Blend of English Sobriety and Italian Panache, SuitSupplys Excellent Hidden in Plain Site Jort Line, Ring Jackets Easy, Comfortable Tailoring, Spier & Mackays Affordable Take on Neapolitan Tailoring, Proper Cloths Fast, Custom Fit Tailored Clothing, Guide to Make the Most of Your Proper Cloth Custom Shirt Purchase, The Radical Act of Perfecting the Basics, The Unassailable Appeal of the Oxford Cloth Button Down Shirt, How to Get Free Return Shipping From PayPal, Get Yourself a Black-Dial Steel Sports Watch. And while pleats, as we know them today, did come about in the 1920s, there was also a fad for pleat-like styles a hundred years earlier in the 1820s. Pleats Can Be Unflattering, If Cut Poorly, 5. So when will you wear them? Still tapering down to a remarkably narrow 15-3/8 inch leg opening, theyre trying their mightiest to maintain a slim appearance with that ginormous top block introduced by the pleats. The fabric blows me away.
Do you wear pleated pants, or have you done so in the past? Therefore, my trousers today are khakis made from a more modern, lightweight fabric. You? Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I suppose both men and women have been utilizing pleats in their clothing for hundreds of years at this point, but the 80s did see pleats as a big feature on womens pants too. But, as these trouser styles began to widen around the leg, that opened the door to the fashion fad known as the Cossack trouser, which featured many pleats at the front of the trousers similar to a too-tight drawstring on a pair of pajama pants.
Despite the pleat, I wanted to give them a try. Theyve got the wrong body type a bit fleshy, with heavy or wide thighs. Do you think theyll die out? Maybe a bit longer with a bit of a break? But of course, I prefer flat front over pleats.
To combat this, trouser stretching and creasing services were offered and, by the 1880s, men were stretching and creasing their trousers themselves with at-home devices. am now maybe on board? You mentioned youre shorter, which indicates youve put some thought into what you think looks flattering on you. I personally like forward pleats better, probably because theyre not as common. Theyre what make dress pants, dressy. How anyone can be counter culture and mainstream at the same time baffles many even in his absence? The fashion drivers that have taken this away forgot that they owned a pair, and if they dod not they overlooked those that do! I think I ended up with size 32-ish rise, 39 waist and I think 40 trousers But, as denim, sneakers, and bold T-shirts were making waves in the world of fashion in the 80s and 90s, it became increasingly obvious if you werent in on these trends.