This is a series of coloured dots on the lobes of the cam which suggest how retracted the cam should be for the best placement.
single annual Or for minimizing stress in the rock or stability of the cam? The Green Dragonfly is incredibly small, beaten slightly only by the smallest Black Diamond Z4. Rob, off topic, but which sizes of Totem are you using on Peak Lime? With sculpted lobes that account for a portion of the weight savings, the Camalot Ultralight features a dyneema cord in place of a cable with all of the same strength you rely on. We dont know where you can buy this item online in the US.
I have an old #4 (that friends hate seeing me pull out), and it seems to be larger than the 'new' #4, wasn't there a #3.5 too? Added some cool features to give you the Black Diamond Z4 cam. I'm looking into building my rack and some of your insights are most welcome. Read more. Just like their big brothers, these cams include a thumb loop to make placements easier and to provide an additional clip-in point for aid climbers. In theory this will very slightly reduce holding power but, as Black Diamond point out, these are well tested units that certainly don't make a habit of coming out. Hobart I traced the Excel graphs in Photoshop to make them more presentable, but the data should all be in here. i did have a red Alien but had to retire it after I fell 50 ft onto it.
This review focuses on two new sizes at opposite ends of the range. The ribbed trigger and thumb rest are grippy and even the #000 fit my big mitts. All rights reserved. The three micro cams in the range do not have any patterning on the lobes, but that seems to be the norm in this size range. which in turn is determined by the type of alloy used in the lobes and the features of the surface (e.g smooth, ridged). Australia, - Matte Black + ChromaPop Polarized Blue Mirror Lens, - Matte Black + ChromaPop Polarized Gray Green Lens, FREE POST for orders over $100 with Australia Post. There is precious little to fault and yet, somehow, I often found myself reaching for other units first. The flexible stem and extendable sling are both brilliant because they prevent your cams from walking, an issue to which micro cams are particularly prone, but it can make them more difficult for your second to remove as it's sometimes hard to move the lobes using the stem. DMM's long-anticipatedentry into the micro cam market was worth the wait, says Theo Moore. Welcome wilder one, you have successfully subscribed! This means that it's important for the stem of a micro cam to be flexible so that the sideways pull on the rope does not move the lobes, thereby compromising the placement. They have a higher strength rating than Metolius cams, but I have never fallen on them. One good thing to mention as well is the jargon often attached to crack-size when looking over a topo- eg. Seeming good build quality, options of extendable and non extendable slings, I've use them alongside my Totem Basics for a few years now and rate them both. They have a plastic body that protects the springs and allows for each lobe to move independently. It is also worth noting that the 0.3 and above are rated equally for active and passive placements, as the double axle design allows them to be nutted in too a unique feature in this group test. Olympus, what would it look like? When you place a cam that small it can be scary to fall on. tag.src = "https://www.youtube.com/iframe_api"; But even Honnold has to thrust his body into deep fissures from time to time:"Many of the most classic routes in the world, As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse have tried some Metolius micro cams but they didnt inspire me with confidence. The lightweight Dynex slings are also robust. It was pretty trashed after that. In general, the stems of more modern cams are more flexible, and some now also include an extendable sling as part of the unit. Weve also widened the trigger as well for better handling. The Dragonflys score pretty highly here as their stems are extremely flexible; in fact they seem even bendier than Totem cams which don't actually have a proper stem. Simple is good. A final thing worth considering is how easily the lobes retract and spring back. They can, however, be problematic in shallow, tapering, or irregular cracks, and they weigh more than the other options. That doesn't bother us, but is worth factoring in if you're looking to balance weight and volume on your rack. and the headwidth is roughly 20% smaller. We haven't deliberately fallen on all the cams but those we have done have held just fine. So handy. They're a matter of personal preference but most climbers seem to be a fan. }. The Camalot C3 0 is no longer produced by Black Diamond and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. With the Red and Gold too you've got three options smaller than your regular set of Dragons. 0.4 Silver (15.3-27.7mm, 9kN) overlaps with silver 0.4 Camalot C4 (15.5-26.7mm) but wider range, slightly smaller and much narrower headwidth. But yes, placing several cams of the same size in a row while jamming the same crack would be the ideal way to really get a feel for body sizes vs. cam size. In terms of grippiness it's interesting to compare the lobes of Dragonfly and Totem Basic micro cams. Certainly they have held well when pulling ropes and being jiggled around on traverse ropework. Apparently this doesn't affect performance but it's not ideal. For finger cracks, if I think I am going to fall on a small cam, I want it to be a C4. In the smaller sizes (0, 00, and 000), the C3 really shines.
Great article, thanks for posting. The C4 is the backbone of my free climbing rack. Their lobes are small, meaning they have less surface area in contact with the rock. The Black Diamond Z4 cams have a unique colour coding to easily identify the correct size. Hence, making it easier, when frantically looking for the right sized cam, when getting pumped out on a crux move. Saving those few vital seconds that could mean a flash ascent, or a whipper. The smallest sizes, Grey 000, Purple, 00 and Green 0 fit in unique places and fill out the low end of our rack. To cover a range from 19-100mm (actually 19.6-114.7mm) requires 6 units with a total weight of 984g. I do things like this when I get bored. Plus, it features a modern design that improves on the old tried-and-true Camalots. I love my aliens. (1), Comments Here's an interesting site I found about cam angles and forces: Sign up to receive personalized offers, exclusive access to new arrivals, and more, Innovative trigger keeper on sizes #4, #5, #6, #7, and #8 for compact racking, Double-axle design offers the widest range for each cam unit, C-Loop continuous cable stem design is strong and durable, LiteWire Rackpack available for easy racking (see Carabiners). Did BD change some of their cam ranges over the year? I place small C3s occasionally on free climbs doubled up and equalized where there is no other option. Any chance to download your Excel file? This video is really long but very informative for the Camalots and Camalot C3's users. If you could create your own perfect cam in the forge of Mt. Rockfax The extendable slings, when deployed, also really help to prevent walking and add to the flexibility in use of the Zeros.
Another question I have since I've got some old BD Camalots:
Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. Taxes and shipping fee will be calculated at checkout. The function of man is to live, not to exist. A double-axle design allows for the widest placement range possible for each cam device, and colour coding makes for easy identification when quick pro is paramount. That was one of the surprises I noticed from graphing the data. 
includes discounted products from Rockfax. As such carrying the Blue, Silver and Purple Dragonflys in addition to the Blue, Silver and Purple Dragons is a serious consideration. I shall not waste my days trying to prolong them. The latter is affected by the surface of the lobes (and the friction of the rock, but we're not reviewing that!) That's pretty exhaustive! C3s, made by Black Diamond, are a well polished three lobe camming unit.
This is a big let down for a micro cam as it means that there is nothing to compensate for the pull on the rope on the cam, and so it's more likely to walk out of its placement than a cam with a flexible stem. Don't worry though, we have a lot more .css-1bz53a7{transition-property:var(--chakra-transition-property-common);transition-duration:var(--chakra-transition-duration-fast);transition-timing-function:var(--chakra-transition-easing-ease-out);cursor:pointer;-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;outline:2px solid transparent;outline-offset:2px;color:var(--chakra-colors-txt-link);}.css-1bz53a7:hover,.css-1bz53a7[data-hover]{-webkit-text-decoration:none;text-decoration:none;color:var(--chakra-colors-txt-primary);}.css-1bz53a7:focus,.css-1bz53a7[data-focus]{box-shadow:var(--chakra-shadows-outline);}Camming Devices in stock than that. The trigger is easy to use and has a nice big comfy spot for your hand. The Cam Research Site. The two smallest Micro Camalots, .1 and .2, lack double axles because of their small sizes, but have cam stops.
Since the "usable" range is so debatable, all manufacturers now list the full dimensions to avoid selling themselves short. . It's also important to have a range of overlapping sizes in the 'micro' department: if there's only two sizes beneath the regular sized cams then you won't have many micros to protect that route with only small placements.
Our reviewer always carries the Black, Blue and Yellow sizes on his harness and would place much more trust in the Black Totem than an equivalent sized micro cam due to its construction and holding power. Instruction of Replace Trigger Wires on Camalots and Camalot C3's, Safety and Technical Information for Black Diamond Camalot C3.
So, Black Diamond have taken the X4s and the C3s thrown them together. They made the head narrower, the units lighter, very flexible once placed, rigid when placing them, made them very strong, and easy to identify. Its a no brainer. If you are after a cam that performs to a very high level, look no further. Easy to use, flexible when needed, light, an incredible design by Black Diamond. You will not regret your decision, a worthwhile investment. The only other drawback is the price, which tops the charts. The placement sizes also overlap nicely with the DMM Dragons, which is great if you're double-racking cams. --Jack London, Images Great article, awesome graphics as usual. .
If you were to compare the total weight of X4 range and the Z4 range, the Z4s would come in at 44 grams lighter, and you would have an extra cam. Whats not to like. The worlds best-selling, most trusted cam just got better. BD Athlete Alex Honnold has never been a fan of wide cracks, or as he puts it a little more bluntly: "Offwidth climbing sucks". The usable range vs advertised range breakdown is really interesting -- I hadn't thought of measuring that before. They stand up well to the extremely scientific 'place them and give them a good tug' test. Having a tiny cam you can rely on to protect otherwise unprotectable sections of rock can make the difference between arriving at the top of your route or at the bottom. So, we have compared the Z4s with the X4s. How do they fare against the C3 camming units? Please find below a table of the camming ranges, comparing the C3 units with the Z4 camming devices. From aid seams to tip cracks, the five sizes of Black Diamond Camalot C3s have you covered. Purple: Fingers Any info on the alloy used for all the different cam lobes? for God's sake spend a week at Index or the Creek." Mark, if you really don't have any idea what someone is talking about when they say you need a #3, for God's sake spend a week at Index or the Creek. This stiffness is extremely good in the micro range, and across all sizes allows for even trigger deployment something that is slightly harder with the flippier, flexier stemmed cams in this group test. The wire cable gives flexibility to wiggle into an awkward placement, bend around the edges of cracks, and helps minimise walk when pulled directionally. Perhaps the likelihood of this increased due to the amount of stem exposed between the thumbloop and trigger - there is over twice as much exposed stem compared to the Dragonfly, for example.
if (!$('script[src="https://www.youtube.com/iframe_api"]').length) { A micro cam is only useful insofar as it can protect you. The large sizes have wide heads for exceptional stability in offwidths. Not a lot of people know this but, internally, a Camalot is a twin-stemmed device.
Anecdotally, the Zeros hold well.
But proportionately, it is still a big difference. With the biggest weigh saving of 28%, I mean, that is almost a third. That is almost unheard of. It's a really odd feature which restricts the utility of the Master Cams and we can only assume that the extra length of the metal is necessary for the cam's construction, otherwise it would be much better filed off. This version of the Camalot C3 0 is officially retired.You've found a page of history! The 0 is about the same size as a blue Alien / 0 TCU.
It's mentioned as important in the Dragonfly section, then not mentioned again? We can distinguish between the strength of the micro cam (the x kN rating it's given) and the ability of the lobes to hold on to the rock when under tension. These haven't got the same rock-grabbing teeth as the Dragons, but DMM say that their raw aluminium surface increases friction, meaning that the cam is more likely to hold on smooth rock types. UKClimbing Limited. This allows us to provide a consistent comparison to a single size of cams. incredible community has formed around the site - weve provided the framework but its you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. *Pssst, you can subscribe to WeighMyRack's Youtube or Vimeo channels for more gear videos. Overall we like extendable slings. However, if a product fails to meet a Consumer Guarantee, then this exclusion will not apply. However, on paper there's no difference. Below is a table comparing the strength rating of the Z4 units: From the table above, you can see that the Black Diamond Z4 cams strength rating compare like for like for most of its sizes. The 2 bigger units are slightly stronger, than the X4 equivalent. The units of size 0.3 to 0.75 are double-axle cams, hence these can be used as passive placements. The other three units (0 0.2) are only able to be placed when actively cammed.
The C3s were, the easiest to actually use. How to use Black Diamond Camalot C3, care, maintenance, lifespan, inspection and retirement with instructional pictures. All Rights Reserved. and Blue/Grey (camalot color): Painful tips/tips As a result, an In terms of sizing, one of the most notable features of the Dragonfly is its narrow head width*. Good way to find how to loose weight. In terms of weight, despite their higher volume appearance, the Z4s are pretty light and certainly comparable to others in the test. The narrow head width of the Green and Purple sizes in particular is exceptional as it opens up so many placement options and so, if you're going to be carrying two sets of cams on a route, the Zeros are an obvious choice. Rather than the thumbloop which is typical of the microcams on this test the Master Cams have a pig nose to hold with your thumb. In terms of the available sizes this is everything we could want from a range of micro cams. Having used the Dragonflys for over a year now they are doing pretty well. The Totem Basics are Totem's micro cams and we will provide just a brief overview as it's unfair to include a cam which is no longer in production. What's the verdict? Innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5, #6, #7, #8. Points: 490, Latest those which overlap with the Camalot C4 range) also have significantly narrower heads than their C4 counterparts, which would help in building a versatile rack. We have certainly found the rest more 'flippy'. The Black Diamond Camalot C3 has the narrowest head by far, which makes it the best cam at getting in tight spots. Not only is a cam with a smooth action more pleasant to use, it also often correlates with the individual lobes moving in unison, making the cam easier to place. These two alloys are the same hardness and so the perceptible difference in the lobes, which may or may not lead to a practical difference, can't be explained by a difference in hardness. We haven't fallen onto a Dragonfly in isolation, but we have fallen on clusters of gear which included Dragonflys and they've held fine. Are they that much better than than Dragonflies/Dragons/C4s? tips, fingers, ringlocks, thin hands, hands, cupped hands, fists, OW+ - and their associated cam pro. The Totem cams, in their Black, Blue and Yellow sizes, overlap with many of the micro cams in this group test: You can read our review of the Black Totem and the full range of Totems, including the Blue and Yellow. They are a bit of a love/hate affair as they certainly add more functionality to the cams but do so at the expense of making them a bit more fiddly to use. Give us a moment to collect those options for you. They are great for aiding thin seams; in fact, some folks successfully aid on these with only two lobes in contact with the rock, but I cannot personally vouch for that. All of the Black Diamond Z4 cams are a single stem cam, where on the 0.3 and larger sizes the wire has been twisted. This allows them to bend in all directions for maximum flexibility. The sizes 0, 0.1, and 0.2 have only a single wire. This means they perform to the same flexibility as the larger units. So, Black Diamond have come up with the Rigid Flex Stem. It allows the cam to be fully flexible in all directions, once placed. It's also a big downside for aiders as you can't clip directly into it. How much more time you could have spent climbing cracks and figuring this out experientially rather than sitting inside with a tape measure and spreadsheet or whatever. The Zeros also have a thumb loop which really helps you to keep a hold of and place them given that the Zeros are so small. On fast-and-light missions and smash-and-grab ascents when weight really matters, the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight presents a 25% weight savings over the Camalot. Color-coded for easy identification and wide range of sizes. Purple/Green: What are you dragging me up!?!?!
On the plus side, the stiff stem of the Master Cam makes it feel extremely solid; it's easy to place and retrieve, confidence-inspiring and durable. The main thing they have over the micro cams in this group test is that they have the benefits of being full bodied cams: their holding power is exceptional, particularly in slick rock such as limestone, and they are much more durable than a micro cam. As well as the purely practical nature of this consideration, there is also a psychological one: if you know that the piece of gear is technically strong enough to hold your fall, you will feel much more confident in it than if not, and given that the vast majority of trad gear placements are not fallen on, the confidence-inspiring ability of a micro cam is often very important. They are, without doubt, my micro-cam of choice. The Zeros have extendable slings which save a lot of quickdraws on your rack and help to prevent walking. Stickers.
The Zeros seem to deform and bend quite quickly. Most regular cam ranges - think the DMM Dragons, Black Diamond Camalots or Wild Country Friends - start with a smallest size range of roughly 14mm - 22mm (BD 13.8-23.4mm, DMM 14-21mm, WC 15.8-26.3mm). Anything under this size will be considered a true micro cam, and it's these we're most interested in here. If you're looking for a very solid set of micro cams and don't need to worry about flexibility, the Master Cams are a good choice. In grams and ounces, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. With rated passive protection strength in the larger sizes, this is an excellent and versatile range of cams that is an excellent addition to your rack. Whilst the sizing of the Master Cam is regular, one thing that is not is the end of the stem which sticks out above the lobes of the 00 and 0 sizes. However, it is much better than no cam at all and many other cams won't get in spots so small. Boy I would love to, but I haven't had the opportunity. You can read Duncan Campbell's full review here: ReviewTotem Basic Cams
So, Black Diamond have taken the head width of the old C3 units, taken the flexibility of the X4 units, sandblasted the cam lobes, improved it a little more, to give you the Black Diamond Z4 cam. All this being said, a cam's propensity to walk is always a function of placement and extension. However, the double axle makes each unit roughly 20 percent heavier than most other brands. In 2015 we gave Totem Cams a glowing write-up, praising in particular their high holding power and narrow head width. It's still holding together well after what must now be a few years of use (although it's worth nothing that it's not a cam I use all that often). From size 1 upwards they have grooved lobes which add some friction to smooth rock types. Camalots, Camalot C3s, Camalot X4s and Camalot Ultralights each have their own unique advantages, and a well-rounded rack will likely contain some or all sizes of each cam. So is the cam angle for the Master Cams at an angle that doesn't push into the rock as well for holding the cam into the rock? At 5kN the smallest size isn't too strong but that's what you might expect from a micro cam. Even after a few uses some of the cams are bent along the stem, both to the side and twisting, and in some cases the stem is bent at a slight angle where it joins the thumb loop. DMM's long-anticipated entry into the micro cam market was worth the wait! A secondary, but important, consideration is head width. With up to 30% less head width than any other micro cam, they fit in more places, more securely. Though lockdown has prevented the usual mileage we would have hoped, the Z4s are standing up well after six months no inverting of lobes or bending of trigger wires (a good thing too, as it seems BD don't think they will be able to sell trigger wire replacement kits for the Z4s in the way they do for their other cams). "How much more time you could have spent climbing cracks and figuring this out experientially rather than sitting inside with a tape measure and spreadsheet or whatever. " A full set of Black Diamond X4 off-sets are available, ranging from sizes 0.75 to 0.1. Unfortunately, they do not produce an off-set cam 0/0.1. I recently was deciding which size of C3 to buy, and one thing led to another, and I created the following 2 tables. This makes them especially suited to free-climbing, where dinking around can make the difference between reaching the anchors, falling or yelling, "Take!". Jokes aside, giving a cam a good rattling around once you've placed it is often illuminating in showing how well the cam's lobes grip that particular rock type and how much the lobes move when the the cam's stem is dragged side to side (as it could be in case of rope drag). Their stems are very rigid: the main wire of the stem is very stiff and it's then supported by two more seperate wires which combine to give an inflexible stem. What makes the Zeros really stand out is that, in their larger sizes, they make for a brilliant second set of cams for double-racking. Collecting every piece of gear takes a little time. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership. Camalots are designed to provide protection across the full spectrum of crack sizes, from small incipient seams, to perfect hands, to full-on offwidths. This adds a few mm of metal above the lobes, preventing the smallest Master Cams from being placed in shallow placements. 
