Only qualified personnel should service the air conditioning refrigerant system. Once again not being an expert on this whole AC stuff and not trying to rule out any other possible issue.
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Open the low-pressure valve on the manifold gauge set and allow refrigerant to enter the A/C system. About Us -
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R134A is a blended gas so it has to be charged as a liquid not vapor because the different elements of the gas separate when they expand and will not combine back together until they are compressed and condensed back into a liquid. I can't really say which # is correct but, I would start with the 42oz & see how it works. If you charged as a vapor you will need to dump the charge evacuate and recharge from a new can to get the proper ballance of the elements. If you high side gauge gets to high you either have a overcharge, dirty condenser or not moving enough air through the condenser. If I'm just adding I slowly add into the suction side as a liquid with the a/c running but it had to be slow. Approximate dry fill capacity. Being a old refrigeration guy but not auto I won't charge a system without having both high and low side gauges on and my refrigeration scale to weigh in the charge. Actual amount may vary during fluid changes. It's simply changing phases between its gas and liquid states and absorbing or releasing BTUs in the process. Fine.
Getting ready to replace the R-134a refrigerant in my a/c system. Trailer Towing, Other; Brakes, Electrical, Hitches, Weight Distribution & CDL Discussion, Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L), Bio-diesel, Propane & Alternative Diesel Engine Fuels, Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator, 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis, Nite, Nascar & Other Limited Edition Ford Trucks, Supercharger, Turbocharger, Nitrous Oxide & Water/Methanol Injection, Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W), Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460), FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428), 335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland, Y-Block V8 (239, 272, 292, 312, 317, 341, 368), Audio & Video Systems, Navigation, Satellite Radio & Mobile Electronics, Bed Covers, Tonneau covers, Toppers/Canopies & Bed liners, Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels, Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case, Fuel Injection, Carburetion & Fuel System, Vendor Specials, Discounts, Product Announcements & Group Buys. A little hint on what to look for when getting close to full charge, the suction line coming out of the firewall will start to sweat and be beer can cold. The air conditioning refrigerant system contains refrigerant under high pressure. The concern with charging as a liquid is that you'll load up the compressor with liquid refrigerant (it's supposed to enter the compressor as a gas) and "slug" the compressor which can lead to compressor failure. If you charged as a vapor you will need to dump the charge evacuate and recharge from a new can to get the proper ballance of the elements.
I just replaced the evaporator core in my '99 F250, charged the system with the 40oz that is on the sticker on the radiator support, and the coldest I've seen out of the vent is 48* and it's only 75* outside today. If I'm just adding I slowly add into the suction side as a liquid with the a/c running but it had to be slow. When charging have the a/c set on max so your not mixing outside air and the fan on high. Did you ever find a definite answer to this? 8oz (40 oz) of R-134a. Being a old refrigeration guy but not auto I won't charge a system without having both high and low side gauges on and my refrigeration scale to weigh in the charge. Did you first use a Evac Pump before recharging your system? So I checked the underhood sticker for refrigerant capacity, and it tells me 2lb.
If your low side will not come up with the proper charge you could have a plugged fixed feed office. I've been doing automotive A/C work for over 20 years and I've never heard of a theory about the refrigerant's elements "separating". Might not be the most logical way about going about it, but it works for me over trying to do it in the mid-day 110 F temps. Opening the air conditioning refrigerant system can cause personal injury. I have noticed in my own experiences that by slightly over charging my AC system it will not cool down to the 38-40 F. Also the outside ambient temp plays a factor in correctly adjusting for the right amount of Freon in the system for it to cool correctly. How much of the stuff should I spend money on? Ok on the Vac pump. 8oz (40 oz) of R-134a. Fine. Archive - I sort of asked the same question in another thread. Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor, Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil, Explorer (TUB) Canada/United States of America, enUSA, Edition date: 03/2016, First Printing, Ford 2010 escape automobile owner's manual (346 pages), Ford 2010 automobile owner's manual (324 pages), Ford 2010 automobile owner's manual (420 pages), Ford 2010 automobile owner's manual (407 pages), Ford 2010 transit connect automobile owner's manual (259 pages), Ford 2011 crown victoria owner's manual (332 pages), Manual will be automatically added to "My Manuals", Ford EXPLORER 2017 Quick Reference Manual, Automobile Ford 2017 FUSION Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 Escape Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford Escape 2010 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford Escape 2010 Workshop Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 E-150 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 F-150 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford F-150 2010 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford F-150 2010 Workshop Manual, Automobile Ford F-150 2010 Supplement Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 F-250 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 Transit Connect Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford 2011 Crown Victoria Owner's Manual, Mustang 2017 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, MUSTANG 2018 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, 2016 MUSTANG Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, Mustang 2016 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, 2016 Mustang Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, 2016 EXPLORER Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, MUSTANG 2015 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, Mustang 2015 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, Flex 2018 Capacities And Specifications - 3.5L Ecoboost, ECOSPORT Capacities And Specifications - 1.0L Ecoboost, TRANSIT 2018 Capacities And Specifications - 3.5L Ecoboost, F-150 2018 Capacities And Specifications - 3.3L Duratec - V6, TRANSIT 2017 Capacities And Specifications - 3.5L Ecoboost, Taurus2017 Capacities And Specifications - 2.0L Ecoboost, FOCUS Capacities And Specifications - 1.0L Ecoboost. Do Not Sell My Personal Information -, By logging into your account, you agree to our. 1 fluid ounce does NOT equal 1 ounce on a scale! Remember, those are weights, NOT fluid ounces! So I checked the underhood sticker for refrigerant capacity, and it tells me 2lb. Not a single answer. Contact Us - Watch your high side gauge to make sure it's not getting over 200, the low side should settle around 30 to 35. I've been doing automotive A/C work for over 20 years and I've never heard of a theory about the refrigerant's elements "separating". When charging have the a/c set on max so your not mixing outside air and the fan on high. If your low side will not come up with the proper charge you could have a plugged fixed feed office. The concern with charging as a liquid is that you'll load up the compressor with liquid refrigerant (it's supposed to enter the compressor as a gas) and "slug" the compressor which can lead to compressor failure. Cookie Policy - However, for someone who doesn't know what they're doing, charging as a gas is always recommended (read the instructions on the can, they assume a novice) as that avoids the risks associated with liquid charging. As to the refrigerant left in the hose, the hose should be purged of all air prior to charging the system to avoid introducing any contaminants into the system, so you just measure the amount that actually goes into the system after purging the hose. Watch your high side gauge to make sure it's not getting over 200, the low side should settle around 30 to 35. If I have to recharge my system, I like to do it when it is the most coolest outside like in the early morning. Since the low pressure inlet is usually in the accumulator, one can usually "dump" in some liquid and wait a bit for it to to be drawn out as a gas into the compressor before repeating. If you high side gauge gets to high you either have a overcharge, dirty condenser or not moving enough air through the condenser. R134A is a blended gas so it has to be charged as a liquid not vapor because the different elements of the gas separate when they expand and will not combine back together until they are compressed and condensed back into a liquid. However, for someone who doesn't know what they're doing, charging as a gas is always recommended (read the instructions on the can, they assume a novice) as that avoids the risks associated with liquid charging. It's simply changing phases between its gas and liquid states and absorbing or releasing BTUs in the process. Use a scale to measure how much you put in! Terms of Service - Getting ready to replace the R-134a refrigerant in my a/c system. Since the low pressure inlet is usually in the accumulator, one can usually "dump" in some liquid and wait a bit for it to to be drawn out as a gas into the compressor before repeating.
R134A is a blended gas so it has to be charged as a liquid not vapor because the different elements of the gas separate when they expand and will not combine back together until they are compressed and condensed back into a liquid. I can't really say which # is correct but, I would start with the 42oz & see how it works. If you charged as a vapor you will need to dump the charge evacuate and recharge from a new can to get the proper ballance of the elements. If you high side gauge gets to high you either have a overcharge, dirty condenser or not moving enough air through the condenser. If I'm just adding I slowly add into the suction side as a liquid with the a/c running but it had to be slow. Approximate dry fill capacity. Being a old refrigeration guy but not auto I won't charge a system without having both high and low side gauges on and my refrigeration scale to weigh in the charge. Actual amount may vary during fluid changes. It's simply changing phases between its gas and liquid states and absorbing or releasing BTUs in the process. Fine. Getting ready to replace the R-134a refrigerant in my a/c system. Trailer Towing, Other; Brakes, Electrical, Hitches, Weight Distribution & CDL Discussion, Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L), Bio-diesel, Propane & Alternative Diesel Engine Fuels, Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator, 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks, 1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis, Nite, Nascar & Other Limited Edition Ford Trucks, Supercharger, Turbocharger, Nitrous Oxide & Water/Methanol Injection, Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W), Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460), FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428), 335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland, Y-Block V8 (239, 272, 292, 312, 317, 341, 368), Audio & Video Systems, Navigation, Satellite Radio & Mobile Electronics, Bed Covers, Tonneau covers, Toppers/Canopies & Bed liners, Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels, Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case, Fuel Injection, Carburetion & Fuel System, Vendor Specials, Discounts, Product Announcements & Group Buys. A little hint on what to look for when getting close to full charge, the suction line coming out of the firewall will start to sweat and be beer can cold. The air conditioning refrigerant system contains refrigerant under high pressure. The concern with charging as a liquid is that you'll load up the compressor with liquid refrigerant (it's supposed to enter the compressor as a gas) and "slug" the compressor which can lead to compressor failure. If you charged as a vapor you will need to dump the charge evacuate and recharge from a new can to get the proper ballance of the elements.
I just replaced the evaporator core in my '99 F250, charged the system with the 40oz that is on the sticker on the radiator support, and the coldest I've seen out of the vent is 48* and it's only 75* outside today. If I'm just adding I slowly add into the suction side as a liquid with the a/c running but it had to be slow. When charging have the a/c set on max so your not mixing outside air and the fan on high. Did you ever find a definite answer to this? 8oz (40 oz) of R-134a. Being a old refrigeration guy but not auto I won't charge a system without having both high and low side gauges on and my refrigeration scale to weigh in the charge. Did you first use a Evac Pump before recharging your system? So I checked the underhood sticker for refrigerant capacity, and it tells me 2lb. If your low side will not come up with the proper charge you could have a plugged fixed feed office. I've been doing automotive A/C work for over 20 years and I've never heard of a theory about the refrigerant's elements "separating". Might not be the most logical way about going about it, but it works for me over trying to do it in the mid-day 110 F temps. Opening the air conditioning refrigerant system can cause personal injury. I have noticed in my own experiences that by slightly over charging my AC system it will not cool down to the 38-40 F. Also the outside ambient temp plays a factor in correctly adjusting for the right amount of Freon in the system for it to cool correctly. How much of the stuff should I spend money on? Ok on the Vac pump. 8oz (40 oz) of R-134a. Fine. Archive - I sort of asked the same question in another thread. Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor, Motorcraft SAE 5W-30 Super Premium Motor Oil, Explorer (TUB) Canada/United States of America, enUSA, Edition date: 03/2016, First Printing, Ford 2010 escape automobile owner's manual (346 pages), Ford 2010 automobile owner's manual (324 pages), Ford 2010 automobile owner's manual (420 pages), Ford 2010 automobile owner's manual (407 pages), Ford 2010 transit connect automobile owner's manual (259 pages), Ford 2011 crown victoria owner's manual (332 pages), Manual will be automatically added to "My Manuals", Ford EXPLORER 2017 Quick Reference Manual, Automobile Ford 2017 FUSION Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 Escape Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford Escape 2010 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford Escape 2010 Workshop Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 E-150 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 F-150 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford F-150 2010 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford F-150 2010 Workshop Manual, Automobile Ford F-150 2010 Supplement Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 F-250 Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford 2010 Transit Connect Owner's Manual, Automobile Ford 2011 Crown Victoria Owner's Manual, Mustang 2017 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, MUSTANG 2018 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, 2016 MUSTANG Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, Mustang 2016 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, 2016 Mustang Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, 2016 EXPLORER Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, MUSTANG 2015 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, Mustang 2015 Capacities And Specifications - 2.3L Ecoboost, Flex 2018 Capacities And Specifications - 3.5L Ecoboost, ECOSPORT Capacities And Specifications - 1.0L Ecoboost, TRANSIT 2018 Capacities And Specifications - 3.5L Ecoboost, F-150 2018 Capacities And Specifications - 3.3L Duratec - V6, TRANSIT 2017 Capacities And Specifications - 3.5L Ecoboost, Taurus2017 Capacities And Specifications - 2.0L Ecoboost, FOCUS Capacities And Specifications - 1.0L Ecoboost. Do Not Sell My Personal Information -, By logging into your account, you agree to our. 1 fluid ounce does NOT equal 1 ounce on a scale! Remember, those are weights, NOT fluid ounces! So I checked the underhood sticker for refrigerant capacity, and it tells me 2lb. Not a single answer. Contact Us - Watch your high side gauge to make sure it's not getting over 200, the low side should settle around 30 to 35. I've been doing automotive A/C work for over 20 years and I've never heard of a theory about the refrigerant's elements "separating". When charging have the a/c set on max so your not mixing outside air and the fan on high. If your low side will not come up with the proper charge you could have a plugged fixed feed office. The concern with charging as a liquid is that you'll load up the compressor with liquid refrigerant (it's supposed to enter the compressor as a gas) and "slug" the compressor which can lead to compressor failure. Cookie Policy - However, for someone who doesn't know what they're doing, charging as a gas is always recommended (read the instructions on the can, they assume a novice) as that avoids the risks associated with liquid charging. As to the refrigerant left in the hose, the hose should be purged of all air prior to charging the system to avoid introducing any contaminants into the system, so you just measure the amount that actually goes into the system after purging the hose. Watch your high side gauge to make sure it's not getting over 200, the low side should settle around 30 to 35. If I have to recharge my system, I like to do it when it is the most coolest outside like in the early morning. Since the low pressure inlet is usually in the accumulator, one can usually "dump" in some liquid and wait a bit for it to to be drawn out as a gas into the compressor before repeating. If you high side gauge gets to high you either have a overcharge, dirty condenser or not moving enough air through the condenser. R134A is a blended gas so it has to be charged as a liquid not vapor because the different elements of the gas separate when they expand and will not combine back together until they are compressed and condensed back into a liquid. However, for someone who doesn't know what they're doing, charging as a gas is always recommended (read the instructions on the can, they assume a novice) as that avoids the risks associated with liquid charging. It's simply changing phases between its gas and liquid states and absorbing or releasing BTUs in the process. Use a scale to measure how much you put in! Terms of Service - Getting ready to replace the R-134a refrigerant in my a/c system. Since the low pressure inlet is usually in the accumulator, one can usually "dump" in some liquid and wait a bit for it to to be drawn out as a gas into the compressor before repeating.