If you are into vitamin C, you cantake a look at more promising derivatives here. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but awax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often usedand often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. So far we were writing about ceramides in plural. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Opuntia Ficus-Indica (Prickly Pear) Seed Oil, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Read all the geeky details about Propylene Glycol here >>, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, Read all the geeky details about Salicylic Acid here >>, The BeautyBrains blog made a fantastic article about ceramides, take a look at more promising derivatives here, A natural moisturizer thats also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, It's a helper ingredient that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products, It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer, It has a bad reputation among natural cosmetics advocates but cosmetic scientists and toxicology experts do not agree (read more in the geeky details section), Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive, It's one of the gold standard ingredients for treating problem skin, It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores, It's more effective for treating blackheads than acne, For acne combine it with antibacterial agents like benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid. its comfortable and gentle and absolutely suitable for all skin types. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Aloe Vera is one of todays magic plants. What research does confirm about Aloe is that its a great moisturizer and has several anti-inflammatory (among others contains salicylates, polysaccharides, magnesium lactate and C-glucosyl chromone) as well as some antibacterial components. Our current one, Ceramide 1, or morerecently called CeramideEOP, was the first one that was identified in 1982 and it's a special snowflake. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. My skin looks plumper and is glowing a winning combination! One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). I'm obsessed! If skin barrier is compromised, make sure to remove retinols, acids or intense actives from your routine. One such partner is Google. No need to rinse. That is probably no coincidence. Scientia Ceramide Skin Rescue Moisture Barrier Balm. The tube is made of aluminium, so is also fully recyclable, simply remove the cap before doing so. For comfortable, dewy skin thats drenched in moisture, healthy, restored and glowing. Probably thats why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. A not so strong preservative that doesnt really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. About1820% of the peeled fruits are seeds, and the seeds contain only about 3-5% oil. (source: manufacturer info). The BeautyBrains blog made a fantastic article about ceramides and they have listed a couple of examples about studies showing that ceramides - especially when used in certain ratios with cholesterol and fatty acids - do hydrate the skin and can help to repair the skin barrier. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. Ceramides get quite a lot of hype recently and good news: there is a reason for that. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It's a great ingredient to neutralize metal (especially iron and copper) ions in a cosmetic product. Use the tab key or shift plus tab keys to move between the menu items. For more stressed-out skin, apply a thicker layer as an overnight mask. If you require any help with your order, please contact us at hello@scientiabeauty.com. As for skincare, it works as an emollient and skin-identical ingredient. 5000, ( Scientia Ceramide Skin Rescue Moisture Barrier Balm 65ml, Scientia Green Supreme CBD Vegi-Tox Smoothie Serum. Hyaluronic Acidfor added hydration, with incredible moisture binding abilities and a tiny molecular structure, Hyaluronic Acid can help hold moisture up to 1000 times its own weight when applied to the skin. Please try again later! Its pretty much the current IT-preservative. All international orders are handled by FedEx via a fully tracked service. Tried this product after getting hooked on their Notox product. According to The National Sunflower Association, there is evidencethat both the plant and its oil were used by American Indians in the area of Arizona and New Mexico about 3000 BC. BTW, its also a food preservativeand even has an E number, E202. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". A kind of polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) thathelps to create beautiful gel-like textures. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. I call this my Winter Skin Remedy! Enhanced by Sphingolipids, these ceramide precursors help to strengthen the skin barrier, creating signalling pathways to encourage the upper layers of the skin to synthetises their own ceramides. No matter the origin, in small amounts (up to 1%) its a nice, gentle preservative. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. Ceramides (5 types) . ALOE BARBADENSIS (ALOE VERA) LEAF JUICE, GLYCERIN, AQUA (WATER), PROPYLENE GLYCOL, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, CANOLA OIL, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, Free UK Standard delivery on orders over 50*, International (Denmark, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Spain). A mild, natural preservative that usually comes to the formula together with its other mild preservative friends, such as Benzoic Acid and/orDehydroaceticAcid. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. Its not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. Usually dispatched within 24 hours. It can also improve the skin barrier and hydrate the skin. Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. It works over a wide pH range and is used between 0.5-1.2%. A 'proof point' with a green tick means a third party has verified the accuracy of the statement whereas no green tick means that there isn't independent confirmation (yet! Need to restore depleted, stressed-out skin? So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? Also,it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreadingemollient. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. We wrote way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more. A mild, natural preservative that usually comes to the formula together with its other mild preservative friends, such as Benzoic Acid and/orDehydroaceticAcid. Please try again. The goopy stuff between our skin cells is called extracellular matrix that consists mainly of lipids. I have experienced no irritation at all including on an open wound (dont ask Im clumsy!) Has to be combined with some other nice preservatives, like potassium sorbateto be broad spectrum enough. A great oil for drier skin types and excellent for eczema and psoriasis. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Leslie Bauman notes in Cosmetic Dermatology that one application of sunflower oil significantly speeds up the recovery of the skin barrier within an hour and sustains the results 5 hours after using it. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. (Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). Ok, so now we know what ceramides are, let's see what they do in our skin: research shows clearly that they play a super important role in keeping the skin barrier healthy and the skin hydrated. Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. AD PR Samples and Affiliate Links included. Oh, and one more thing: alkaline pH inhibits enzymes that help ceramide synthesis in our skin. Thanks. In high amounts, it can be a skin irritant, but dont worry, its never used in high amounts. The neutralized form of gluconic acid. Thanks to this last thing, it allows a lower percentage of traditional preservative or it might even be able to completelyreplace them. Ceramides make up 50% of the goopy stuff that's between our skin cells and play a super important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Please go to the Instagram Feed settings page to create a feed. It contains the essential fatty acid, linoleic acid and has a unique structure. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits, but it seems to fall short on several things. Designed to drench skin in a cooling veil of soothing hydration, the comforting balm is powered by a medley of nourishing, barrier-boosting ingredients. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilizesome other ingredient. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. Well, the answer is probably a no, but they do work to some extent. It is also rich in antioxidant vitamin E(110mg/100g) and in anti-inflammatory sterols (beta-sitosterol, campesterol). About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol. It's also used in oral care products where itreduces the bitterness of other ingredients. If you have spottedethylhexylglycerinon the ingredient list, most probably you will see there also the current IT-preservative,phenoxyethanol. A type of lipid that's the major component of all cell membranes. It feels wonderfully luxurious to touch and has a lovely light scent which I enjoy. But even if everything is right, its not enough on its own. There is also research showing that birch bark extract can improve the skin barrier, increase skin hydration and reduce trans-epidermal water loss. It's the largest succulent plant in the world and almost all parts of it have traditional medicinal uses in Africa. From fluctuating weather to disruptive AC and heating to pollution and over-exfoliation, its no wonder that it can end up feeling irritated and depleted. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. If ceramides in the skin are decreased, more water can evaporate from the skin and there is less water remaining in the skin. An infusion of jojoba, watermelon, aloe, baobab and Kalahari melon extracts then helps to plump and smooth, revealing more supple, dewy and glowing skin. A typeof ceramidethat can be found naturally in the upper layer of the skin. But before we go into the details, let's just quickly define what the heck ceramides are:
Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. 28.00 available from Scientia and Cult Beauty*, Find out more about Scientia and see my review of the Peachy Clean Milky Oil Cleanser here. A kind of polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) thathelps to create beautiful gel-like textures. It also helps wound healing and skin regeneration in general. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are alltriglycerides. status TARGETS: Damaged moisture barrier & stressed out skin. This order will earn They are waxy lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin (called stratum corneum - SC). Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. Not really that good. Good old water, aka H2O. is drying. It's believed that ceramide 1 plays a "binding role" in the lipid layers of the extracellular matrix. Third, another study that wanted to examine the antioxidant properties of AP was surprised to find that even though AP does have nice antioxidant properties;following UVB radiation (the same one that comesfrom the sun) it also promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. An error has occurred. For more information see our cookie policy. A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. items in your basket It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). No matter the origin, in small amounts (up to 1%) its a nice, gentle preservative.