The procedure for calculating the required thickness of the furring strips is described on page 117 of the Best Practices Guide: "The specific ESR 1844 & 2290 fastener must be installed into a material that has the same or better holding power than that specified in the ESR 1844 & 2290 and with the same penetration as the ESR 1844 & 2290 fastener.". This what I am planning: I will be using 3" EPS, on top of tyvec covered sheathing, on top of 2x4 framing on my home reno project. You can spray the product Boracare on your problem and then sprinkle additional boric acid on it. Mold does not like it you lowered the ph of the wood. ","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"After the top trim is installed, its time to attach the battens. Install the next boards the same way you installed the first one. Wear mask and spray moldy areas (or even light rot) in stud bays or other wood with coarse spray. However, its still important to properly treat it with different water and stain repellant finishes. You might want to choose another material thats longer-lasting. This will help the new siding sit flush against the walls.
Paula T, I have a home brew for insects/rodents/mold that I make also. It gives great detail in just about every situation. Your message has been sent Keep reading for board and batten installation tips: By following these tips, youll not only make your life a little bit easier, but youll also help your siding remain in better condition for a longer period of time. and our manager will contact you shortly. Akos hit on the key point here. There's a limit to the depth of message nesting, that's why there's no reply option to some messages. "}},{"@type":"Question","name":"How do I attach batten to the wall?
"}},{"@type":"Question","name":"Can you use pine for board and batten siding? I'm piecing all the elements together slowly. The wider the board is, the more nails it needs. Although the material is cost-effective and quite beautiful, its less durable and has been known to have a much shorter lifespan than other materials, such as cedar or James Hardie. Divide your total wall length by the approximate space youd like between the battens. In fact, its one of our favorite types due to its beauty and durability. Martin Holladay (if my memory serves me correctly) has encouraged people not to worry about horizontal strapping under siding. I went around and sprayed the worst spots with my magic mix and it seems to have helped. The question I have for you first is what fasteners? Even though we try for perfection, there is no perfect building. Are Expensive Building Components Necessary? https://www.jameshardie.com/JamesHardieMainSite/media/Site-Documents/TechnicalBulletins/19-jh-over-advanced-framing-or-continuous-insulation.pdf. Once its secured, install two nails every 18-24 along the boards length. Board and batten can appear rustic or modern, depending on its finish and how rough the lumber is.
And then from the hardie panel to the furring strip? Any particular reason you should use unfaced EPS in this case? Start at one corner of your house and make your way around. Apparently he saw someone char the lower portion of plywood sheathing to prevent rot, and the plywood lasted 20 years (usually the first part to fail). Its usually recommended that the board and batten is installed onto solid plywood or OSB sheathing. Sometimes these materials are less practical or are more expensive but just plain right for a particular application. I would not go down to 3/4" with rigid mineral wool as the adjustments are too fussy (fine if DIY but gets expensive you are paying for labor).". Horizontal Coravent could also work. Boards should be in good condition.
Not sure if they were assuming things and I didn't give enough information? They show that a 1 1/4" fastener would have 3/4" net penetration into the stud. Gather the items youll need before beginning your project. Hmm. You must be a magazine subscriber to access this feature. They say it will reduce the possibility of splitting and I'd also think that the cladding attachments may be more secure. If I were to rip 2x4's length wise to get a 1.5 inch thick furring strip (1.75 or so wide), then I could fasten through 1.5 inches of mineral wool batt, and I guess go for 1 inch embedment into the studs? Since this thread was originally posted, I decided to go with a continuous exterior layer of mineral wool (rockwool comfortboard 80) which is 1.5 inches thick. I have had huge success just doing my due diligence to dry things out but always use a shotgun approach to the treatment of rot because I take anything degrading my hard won building project very seriously. If you want a rain screen you can use either thin strips of 3/8 ply as spacers or one of the drainage mat (ie Slicker Classic). Thicker furring strips to minimize fussing and guarantee a solid siding job seems worth it, even thought it pains me to buy 2x4's instead of 1x4's for furring strips. Although this project can be completed on your own, its usually best to have another person there with you. Starting at one corner of your house, place the batten over the gap between the boards. Once the skirt board is level, use a nail gun or hammer to install three vertical nails every 18-24. Also, check out the Victoria illustrated guide to R22+ effective walls construction guide It was striking from a distance and even better as one got closer. With Shou Sugi Ban you are stuck with it for the life of the cladding. Like all Eric's blogs it's worth a look. Some homeowners also paint it to further prevent decay. Its usually recommended that the board and batten is installed onto solid plywood or OSB sheathing. Adding a layer of Mineral Wool "boards" as exterior insulation/fire protection might also provide a drainage surface given its porous composition under furring strips. I am wondering if Akos' comment (which I can't seem to reply to directly) implies that the foam board products are less fire-resistant than the mineral board. This style of siding also offers plenty of other advantages. This fastener is going to be the shortest fastener approved for fastening panel siding products into wood, therefore the furring must be a minimum of 43mm (1 11/16 in) thick to achieve the same values as CCMC", The second sentence contradicts their own fastener specification a couple of pages earlier, which allows for the following into wood studs: Of course if I remove too much material I'm compromising the strength of the lumber. This might even be a good thing in fire country? Mountain Cabin, are you worrying over the door/window detailing yet? I am definitely sold on the rainscreen idea. So, call one of your best friends or a loving family member, and then you can start. I have a lot more 2x6's than I need for framing interior walls. I noticed that they recommend 3/4" x 4" ripped plywood for furring strips. In Japan there is a temple made of Japanese Red Cedar finished with the Shou Sugi Ban finish.
I have vertical 4x10 Hardie Panel on my home (Just as Trevor described). You may also have to order others. Its possible to use pine for board and batten siding, but its typically not recommended. This style of siding also offers plenty of other advantages. The purpose of the rain screen gap is so that it dries out. https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/homemade-mildew-preventers-that-really-work. Wear a mask and keep pets and children away from it. To learn more about installing board and batten siding, or to schedule an appointment for a consultation, please feel free to give us a call anytime at 215-798-9790 or contact us here. I just want to be clear so you are not disappointed. What wood species are your 1x4s? With hardie board, I was told that 3/4 furring strips are adequate, but elsewhere I am seeing that 1 inch embedment into studs are required, so wondering what thickness furring strips I can get away with. This calculates how many spaces are on your wall.\nAdd 1 to that number to get the number of battens on the wall.\nMultiply the number of battens by the batten width to get the total batten width.\nSubtract the total wall length by the total batten width.\nDivide that by the number of spaces you calculated in the first step. For what it's worth, I'm in zone 4c (the BC stuff is applicable). Perhaps off topic but since you want to install vertically and already have a cedar outbuilding (a beautiful choice for your environment) have you considered Cedar siding in Shou Sugi Ban finish? I'll go into more detail since I happened to look into this issue recently. Multiply the number of battens by the batten width to get the total batten width. You could use one of the netted cedar breathers maybe? https://kimchiandkraut.net/2019/09/21/shou-sugi-ban-siding/. That's the first reference I've seen to using plywood. Its beauty gives homes and cabins a type of rustic charm, its design is durable and proven to last, and along with its ease of installation, its also easy to repair.
I chose horizontal furring strips only, as I tend to agree with Martin and others that much of the benefit of a rainscreen can be achieved simply by having a reservoir of air behind the siding. Before you begin with your DIY board and batten siding installation, make sure you know how the entire process works. With the help of a friend, you can usually expect to have about 800 ft. of it installed in about a day. I dont know if heat from the burn would affect the glue in the plywood in your case either. I would assume that flat against the sheathing the flex isnt an issue but if someone were to go with a rain screen and have spaces of 16 w w/0 direct support behind, would that be an issue? The board size arrangements that can be used for board and batten siding include 110 boards with 12 or 13 battens as well as 18 or 112 boards with 14 battens. I spoke with Hardie Panel, and they said in this situation, the panel requires 1.75 inch thick furring strips, because it requires 2 inch siding nails. What do the vertical joints look like on the 12-16 inch horizontal installations that you're referring to? Thinking about your J. Hardy applicationwhat would be wrong with using something like Cor-A-Vents SV3 or SV5 for your horizontal rain screen application? I think you can back screws out or push in to create a flat plane, although it sounds finicky! Did you do this? for what its worth i tried the allure panels (just once) in a soffit situation and did not feel they were as strong as hardie - they sagged a bit. WRBs are typically somewhere between 25 and 80 perms. It drains vertically when applied horizontally and is marketed more for insect control in a rain screen but might work as the screen itself. Not knowing your specific problem I cant even surmise how to advise and be of help. Sort of a modern look. If the sheathing isnt solid, the laborer will need to first attach horizontal furring strips. I found another way to meet the code requirements for extra energy efficiencyair sealing and a heat recovery ventilatorwhich I am sure I'll be posting questions about shortly. ","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"The board size arrangements that can be used for board and batten siding include 1x10 boards with 1x2 or 1x3 battens as well as 1x8 or 1x12 boards with 1x4 battens. Once its centered and plumb, nail the top, bottom, and once every 18-24 along the battens length. Recipe here Remember that if you use boards that are 6 or more than 6 wide, youll have to fasten them by hammering nails in the middle. Unless you are in wild fire area, I would stick to either unfaced EPS or permeable poyiso. page 17 shows Fastener tables and minimum strapping size for foam vs. mineral wool per different cladding weights. Also, our commitment to the industry and our craft results in beautiful projects that are not only high-quality but also works of art. 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. Is this necessary? Between furring strips and through mineral wool to the framing first? Although the material is cost-effective and quite beautiful, its less durable and has been known to have a much shorter lifespan than other materials, such as cedar or James Hardie. Do you think plywood's a good idea? I like the traditional way of nailing 1/3 of way up the board so as to allow for movement in each board. Rigid mineral wool is somewhat squishy. He suggested using my propane torch to char them. There shouldn't be any issue using foam behind the rain screen. says 3/8 x 2 1/2". I find their literature much harder to decipher than the Rockwool installation manual, which is amazing (more pictures, less numbers though). A 6 board will need one nail, while an 8 board will need two. The good news is that you can contact our team here at Legacy Service. -0.118x0.267x1.5" 4d common nail update: I decided against the continuous exterior insulation (detailing too complicated for my time frame/attention span/budget). Part of it I learned from a master boat builder and the antifreeze portion actually stabilizes the wood if you make enough applications on it to really soak it in. This number will be the exact spacing between each batten. It adds a certain rustic charm that often resembles a modern farmhouse look. Wow, my neighbor who helps me build sometimes, mentioned this as a possible solution to some moldy boards that are looking ugly. I was set to use hardie siding, but maybe I should consider this. If you cant find a wall stud, use wood glue/liquid nails and a nail thats long enough to secure the wood to the wall. Once the top trim is installed, cut your battens to the appropriate size. What is your fastener wood penetration and screw type you're using on top of your 3" mineral wool? Long story short (and purely anecdotal info) he had a fire go through and the Shou Sugi Ban siding with steel roof survived well but a nearby cedar sided building (painted exterior/steel roof ) burned to the ground. This won't delete the articles you've saved, just the list. Once you know that youre fully prepared, you can begin. Yeah, Mountain Cabin, I'd love to connect and discuss siding details.