The composition is recycled fiber products, boric , ammonium sulfate, and binder fiber. 2. I would definitely remove the old fiberglass insulation. Thanks again! It should be fine to leave the batts in place, especially if they are dry, fully fluffed and in good condition. He would simply place down a 20 mil vapor barrier all along the floor and up the walls. They recommend using a non-plastic foam to take care of the problem. Start by air-sealing & insulating the rim joist. Should I buy a galvanized entry tub and Lid to eliminate possible flooding? I have a full unfinished basement with concrete floor but I have two crawl spaces at opposite ends of the basement. You could staple aluminum screen (hardware cloth) to the outside of the wall, and then install vinyl lattice over the screen. Lay down a thick (6mil minimum) vapor barrier over the sand after leveling and tamping it. Another question: if we use rigid foam insulation screwed to the joists like you suggested, is this going to create a moisture problem between the floor and the foam in this air space? The flood vents stay closed under normal conditions, but will open automatically if the water level rises to the vents during a storm. If I run the vapor barrier up to the sill and use fiberglass bats will the vapor barrier stop the batts from geting wet? I am considering construction of a concrete block curtain wall around the exterior to replace existing wooden panels. My situation is a combination of many others discussed earlier. ET: Instead of building a cinder block wall to separate the porch from the crawl space, you could frame a partition wall with 24 pressure-treated lumber, then cover this framing with a thick poly vapor barrier. Hi Tim. There is no moisture at all as is now but since theres no insulation, it obviously is losing a lot of heat. Expansive clay soil can wreak havoc on a foundation regardless of insulation status. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would suggest having a spray foam specialist coat your rim joist and crawl space walls with 2 in. Yes, Id recommend putting perforated pipe in the perimeter drain system before coverage with the plastic sheet. wikiHow, Inc. is the copyright holder of this image under U.S. and international copyright laws. Read the blogs on stack effect; this will explain how negative pressure created by escaping heated air upstairs tends to suck outside air into a crawl space or basement. Hi! Its not possible to clean out this type of lower drain. (overkill, but the Mrs. doesnt like to be cold). Tip: If you plan on storing items in your crawl space, get 12-mil polyethylene sheets so they dont rip or tear when you walk on them. CAN I GLUE THE RIGID INSULATION DIRECTLY TO THE SUBFLOR FROM How would you insulate the floor? If youve got fiberglass batt insulation between CS joists thats dry and in good fluffed condition, Id simply beef up and air-seal this thermal boundary by fastening foil-faced foam board to the underside of CS joists. If there are still parts of your floor (above the crawl space) that are cold, this tells you that more insulation or air sealing is necessary somewhere. You can get polyethylene sheets from your local home improvement or hardware store. However, its important to seal the ductwork. First, can I level the small dirt floor and lay 2 rigid foam board right on the ground or do you still recommend vapor barrier underneath it and against the walls before attaching the foam board? Measure the width and height of each wall in the crawl space. This will hopefully prevent any standing water. Consider replacing old, single-pane crawl space windows with vinyl, insulated glass windows. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. Dont attempt to run a plastic vapor barrier up along a bare studded wall. below grade. Since adhesives can fail over time, we recommend screws or nails. Contractor #1 provided an estimate for a proprietary vapor barrier that was the equivalent of 15mil thickness. But if the bare concrete walls are still exposed (and sucking heat from your living space), I would insulate the basement walls before doing more in your crawl spaces. Thanks again, i really appreciate it. Q1. Great advice. The perimeter of the crawl space consists of cinder block walls. I live in a log home built of re-purposed logs and barn timbers. Foam board, spray foam, or insulation vapor barrier are the most commonly used for crawl space encapsulation projects. But I was more than surprised to hear that they did not plan on putting any insulation along the wall. I even caught a rat. Consider installing flood vents in all your vent openings. 1) Does this sound like a good proposal? Tim, I have been reading that when using foamboard in your rim joists or basement walls, you need to afterward cover the board with fireproof drywall. The basement will always be wet theres a portion of it that sits just above the water table. You dont need heavy equipment to excavate a giant hole for a full basement. Up north where frozen pipes are an issue every winter, beach houses built on piers and crawl space houses have a way to protect water lines that extend beneath the house. This past winter it became difficult to heat the cathedral great room because of air infiltration which was coming from the crawlspace (harshest winter in years). They are fully open to the rest of my basement. This will be a lot faster than moving small pieces of rigid foam insulation through the access door and then piecing them together against the crawl space walls. A full encapsulation (moving the thermal boundary to foundation walls, sealing vents & opening) would also work, but its more expensive. Ready to find out more?
What are you thoughts on it? It also has a dirt floor crawl space with vents. Was going to foam the walls but sounds like a bad idea. I presume that we should try to get duct off ground and mount between a joist but if we cant get access is there a way to optimize ductwork in this situation?
(or thinner) plywood. Once the crawl space is encapsulated, it will be within your homes building envelope, so the interior door should still be fine.
There is no rim joist. Insulation thats too narrow will allow cold air through and make the insulation less effective. It has two vents that we open and close in spring and fall. In that case would you suggest 1) removing the sand before installing VB. Do I need to put Poly sheets on the floor still even though its not a dirt floor? We live in TN and recently purchased an old farmhouse built in 1902. The foamboard on the link is the only type we use and recommend. Many homeowners ask us, "What is the best way to insulate my crawl space?" Thank you again! This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. From reading the various post here I am guessing the best option is apply closed cell spray foam to the walls. If you still feel too much cold coming up through the floor, Basement Systems has a product called TerraBlock(r) that is flexible enough to flex over an irregular floor surface. I would take care to seal those areas carefully, and just live with the system for a year. I intend to insulate the crawl spaces with 2 inches of foil faced foam, tape seams, etc. References. Help! i am going to insulate the wall and rim joists and lay down new vapor barrier like youve suggested. The basement guy stated that he would dig a trench but not re-cover with cement? Its understandable to be confused about your options with this type of open foundation. What type of foam boards would be ok to use around crawl space walls as a vapor barrier? The Essential Guide to Crawl Space Encapsulation is a free guide to help you in choosing the best crawl space encapsulation contractor and methods. Im ready to make proper changes to the crawl space without spending another fortune. It was built in to the foundation when it was originally poured.
The CS is not vented and the access door is outside. To secure the vapor barrier, you run a line of fasteners above the foam insulation, through the vapor barrier, through the Butyl tape, into the block wall. If so, pleasecontact usto schedule your assessment. Instead, install foil-faced rigid foam insulation against the stud wall, and tape all insulation seams with aluminum tape. Thanks. Window and door openings will need extension jambs to bridge this added wall thickness. Extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam and polyurethane foam board can usually provide sufficient moisture barrier protection when installed against foundation walls.
Thanks for all the great info. And caulk the edges of the rigid to the joists, where the rigid fits in between joists at the rim joist. But because fiberglass only attains its advertised R-value when installed in an enclosed, airtight space, its critical to air-seal the crawl space. The basement also needs insulation and air-sealing treatment, but thats a topic for future discussion. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. Install each sheet similarly, pushing each tight to the last. 10 years ago I purchased an one bedroon Apartment turned Condo that is on the corner end of 6 attached manufactured units. There is a poured concrete floor in each crawlspace. I have an old church built in 1874 that has concrete foundation. Thanks for the quick response. Once the space is isolated, my guess is that you will need to run a dehumidifier in order to dry out wood that has accumulated a lot of moisture over the years. 2. The batt was put there when the addition was built, again, decades ago. To avoid this moisture issue, I suggest doing a good job of sealing the rim joist and the joints between foam insulation boards. So hard to determine all I want is to make my life easier by not having to worry so much been battling water for 4 months now. I live in Portland Oregon. But with cinder block piers, youll have to go to the expense of constructing solid walls before encapsulation can begin. With this approach, you would need to air-seal the CS ceiling and insulate it. People are renting them out with little consideration to repairs. and..I knew you were going to say that When I purchased 10 years ago it was $90,000. What happens if we change these pressure and thermal boundaries? If there arent batts that perfectly fit between your joists, then opt for a larger size so you can cut it down. However, its possible that some rigid foam panels may break loose from walls and need to be reattached. On top of the brick, you can bed a pressure-treated 2x sill in construction adhesive; this will form the bottom of your door frame, which will require a weatherstripped, airtight door that can simply be screwed in place on the 2x frame. Is the dehumidifier a necessity when the rim joists on the back side of the space open to the basement for air passage? But focusing on air sealing major sub-floor gaps is recommended whether your crawl space is open or closed. Make one of the covers removable for CS access. Tons of franchise opportunities are now available. I have a 1942 brick bungalow in Jacksonville, FL. So when the poly sheet barrier is laid over the crawl space floor, it can lap up several inches onto the foam insulation and be taped to it. I have electric heat pumps, and my winter heat cost me significantly more than summer cooling. Aluminum tape made (and approved) for duct sealing is the material to use, as you suggest. Thank you again for your advice. Youre right: Your contractor should have alerted you about the mold before encapsulating the crawl space. Install rigid foam insulation against the block walls (Id recommend 2-in.-thick extruded polystyrene).
Thanks A LOT Tim! Rigid insulation laid on the ground over poly? This should significantly reduce air infiltration and heat transfer at your thermal boundary, which in this case is the floor. Multiply the results for each wall to determine the square footage. We live in central Illinois, and even with regrading the water content of our heavy clay soil is pretty high. One big crawl space under all. Last Updated: May 4, 2021 I think these are good alternatives to consider. Posted in Insulation and tagged crawl space insulation, fiberglass insulation, foam board insulation, foundation wall insulation, insulate crawl space, rigid foam board insulation How to Air Seal Return Air Duct10 Bad Crawl Space Repairs It will re-use all the Tuff R on the walls (after disinfecting them for safety). Great information on here. First, there is a porch on the front and side of the house that is open to the CS. Cut small pieces of rigid foam to fit in between the joists around the perimeter of the wall. Can I add rigid foam insulation after I and vapour barrier? All of this work is standard for experienced CS contractors like those in the CleanSpace network. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. So I live in western Washington. After the formwork comes off the walls of your crawl space and before backfilling begins, you can install 2 in.-thick extruded polystyrene rigid foam against the outside face of your walls. Adhere the plastic to the next, and each remaining wall, following the same procedures. If the crawl spaces dirt floor is often damp, its smart to lay down a layer of drainage matting beneath the rigid foam. We have a similar setup (townhouse in flood plain, on foundation and cement piers, crawlspace under main floor, venting to allow air/water movement between adjacent units) . But for now you are new to this old house still in the discovery phase. Once you get the CS dry, you shouldnt need to supply it with conditioned air. thanks. The crawl space floor is rough concrete. Now one company told me that in order to encapsulate I would need to brick in the lattice frames, another company told me that I would be able to encapsulate without bricking in the lattice openings. If the house is in a flood zone, requiring flood insurance, then this will have a bearing on how you handle the crawl space. (Form and add concrete? But we have seen contractors install fiberglass on foundation walls. Sounds like youve got a classic vented crawl space that needs to be encapsulated. Hold the can of foam upright and feed the spraying end into the gap. I have worked storm claims / flood claims for insurance companies and I have seen my share of wet insulation after a flood. The foil facing will act as a vapor barrier as long as its continuous; use sealant to adhere the plastic vapor barrier to the foil facing. Also, try to limit the amount of moist wood (such as damp piles of firewood) on your property. My concern is the way the insulation is held up. The crawlspace will be sealed to prevent condensation. Most instructions for insulating crawlspaces are for people with dirt floors. I didnt insulate the walls because the contractor wanted too much for that step for my liking. How would I add insulation to the finished basement itself? I live in the Chicago land NW area- my house is a old 1955 cottage converted into a 2,600 home. I have a crawlspace over two bedrooms. I just want to move. Once the space is dried to above 50% RH, you can stop running the dehumidifier, and keep the CS sealed up. By the way, we would probably use cellular glass insulation or AirKrete instead of plastic foam, in order to avoid the flame retardants and other environmental negatives that go with plastic foam. Our home is located on the south shore of Long Island,N.Y., about a mile north of the coast. Unfortunately, the same fluffy batt insulation that works well in wood-framed walls performs miserably in crawl spaces. Some installers use a foam board adhesive while others attach the foam board using screws or masonry nails. Since I am not familiar with your area, you may want to contact a local crawl space or insulation company for some advice. Might even double them up to get the extra r value if they are ok. Hi Gary, What should we do? It just makes no sense to me to have the crawl space sealed off and yet it makes no sense to me to have all that nasty vapors floating into the basement area and eventually upstairs. thick) against the crawl space walls. Good luck. If youre serious about improving comfort and avoiding moisture problems, Id recommend installing rigid foam insulation (2-in.-thick extruded polystyrene or SilverGlo(r) panels) against your CS foundation walls (inside the foundation).
What are you thoughts on it? It also has a dirt floor crawl space with vents. Was going to foam the walls but sounds like a bad idea. I presume that we should try to get duct off ground and mount between a joist but if we cant get access is there a way to optimize ductwork in this situation?
(or thinner) plywood. Once the crawl space is encapsulated, it will be within your homes building envelope, so the interior door should still be fine.
There is no rim joist. Insulation thats too narrow will allow cold air through and make the insulation less effective. It has two vents that we open and close in spring and fall. In that case would you suggest 1) removing the sand before installing VB. Do I need to put Poly sheets on the floor still even though its not a dirt floor? We live in TN and recently purchased an old farmhouse built in 1902. The foamboard on the link is the only type we use and recommend. Many homeowners ask us, "What is the best way to insulate my crawl space?" Thank you again! This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. From reading the various post here I am guessing the best option is apply closed cell spray foam to the walls. If you still feel too much cold coming up through the floor, Basement Systems has a product called TerraBlock(r) that is flexible enough to flex over an irregular floor surface. I would take care to seal those areas carefully, and just live with the system for a year. I intend to insulate the crawl spaces with 2 inches of foil faced foam, tape seams, etc. References. Help! i am going to insulate the wall and rim joists and lay down new vapor barrier like youve suggested. The basement guy stated that he would dig a trench but not re-cover with cement? Its understandable to be confused about your options with this type of open foundation. What type of foam boards would be ok to use around crawl space walls as a vapor barrier? The Essential Guide to Crawl Space Encapsulation is a free guide to help you in choosing the best crawl space encapsulation contractor and methods. Im ready to make proper changes to the crawl space without spending another fortune. It was built in to the foundation when it was originally poured.
The CS is not vented and the access door is outside. To secure the vapor barrier, you run a line of fasteners above the foam insulation, through the vapor barrier, through the Butyl tape, into the block wall. If so, pleasecontact usto schedule your assessment. Instead, install foil-faced rigid foam insulation against the stud wall, and tape all insulation seams with aluminum tape. Thanks. Window and door openings will need extension jambs to bridge this added wall thickness. Extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam and polyurethane foam board can usually provide sufficient moisture barrier protection when installed against foundation walls.
Thanks for all the great info. And caulk the edges of the rigid to the joists, where the rigid fits in between joists at the rim joist. But because fiberglass only attains its advertised R-value when installed in an enclosed, airtight space, its critical to air-seal the crawl space. The basement also needs insulation and air-sealing treatment, but thats a topic for future discussion. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. Install each sheet similarly, pushing each tight to the last. 10 years ago I purchased an one bedroon Apartment turned Condo that is on the corner end of 6 attached manufactured units. There is a poured concrete floor in each crawlspace. I have an old church built in 1874 that has concrete foundation. Thanks for the quick response. Once the space is isolated, my guess is that you will need to run a dehumidifier in order to dry out wood that has accumulated a lot of moisture over the years. 2. The batt was put there when the addition was built, again, decades ago. To avoid this moisture issue, I suggest doing a good job of sealing the rim joist and the joints between foam insulation boards. So hard to determine all I want is to make my life easier by not having to worry so much been battling water for 4 months now. I live in Portland Oregon. But with cinder block piers, youll have to go to the expense of constructing solid walls before encapsulation can begin. With this approach, you would need to air-seal the CS ceiling and insulate it. People are renting them out with little consideration to repairs. and..I knew you were going to say that When I purchased 10 years ago it was $90,000. What happens if we change these pressure and thermal boundaries? If there arent batts that perfectly fit between your joists, then opt for a larger size so you can cut it down. However, its possible that some rigid foam panels may break loose from walls and need to be reattached. On top of the brick, you can bed a pressure-treated 2x sill in construction adhesive; this will form the bottom of your door frame, which will require a weatherstripped, airtight door that can simply be screwed in place on the 2x frame. Is the dehumidifier a necessity when the rim joists on the back side of the space open to the basement for air passage? But focusing on air sealing major sub-floor gaps is recommended whether your crawl space is open or closed. Make one of the covers removable for CS access. Tons of franchise opportunities are now available. I have a 1942 brick bungalow in Jacksonville, FL. So when the poly sheet barrier is laid over the crawl space floor, it can lap up several inches onto the foam insulation and be taped to it. I have electric heat pumps, and my winter heat cost me significantly more than summer cooling. Aluminum tape made (and approved) for duct sealing is the material to use, as you suggest. Thank you again for your advice. Youre right: Your contractor should have alerted you about the mold before encapsulating the crawl space. Install rigid foam insulation against the block walls (Id recommend 2-in.-thick extruded polystyrene).
Thanks A LOT Tim! Rigid insulation laid on the ground over poly? This should significantly reduce air infiltration and heat transfer at your thermal boundary, which in this case is the floor. Multiply the results for each wall to determine the square footage. We live in central Illinois, and even with regrading the water content of our heavy clay soil is pretty high. One big crawl space under all. Last Updated: May 4, 2021 I think these are good alternatives to consider. Posted in Insulation and tagged crawl space insulation, fiberglass insulation, foam board insulation, foundation wall insulation, insulate crawl space, rigid foam board insulation How to Air Seal Return Air Duct10 Bad Crawl Space Repairs It will re-use all the Tuff R on the walls (after disinfecting them for safety). Great information on here. First, there is a porch on the front and side of the house that is open to the CS. Cut small pieces of rigid foam to fit in between the joists around the perimeter of the wall. Can I add rigid foam insulation after I and vapour barrier? All of this work is standard for experienced CS contractors like those in the CleanSpace network. This image is not<\/b> licensed under the Creative Commons license applied to text content and some other images posted to the wikiHow website. So I live in western Washington. After the formwork comes off the walls of your crawl space and before backfilling begins, you can install 2 in.-thick extruded polystyrene rigid foam against the outside face of your walls. Adhere the plastic to the next, and each remaining wall, following the same procedures. If the crawl spaces dirt floor is often damp, its smart to lay down a layer of drainage matting beneath the rigid foam. We have a similar setup (townhouse in flood plain, on foundation and cement piers, crawlspace under main floor, venting to allow air/water movement between adjacent units) . But for now you are new to this old house still in the discovery phase. Once you get the CS dry, you shouldnt need to supply it with conditioned air. thanks. The crawl space floor is rough concrete. Now one company told me that in order to encapsulate I would need to brick in the lattice frames, another company told me that I would be able to encapsulate without bricking in the lattice openings. If the house is in a flood zone, requiring flood insurance, then this will have a bearing on how you handle the crawl space. (Form and add concrete? But we have seen contractors install fiberglass on foundation walls. Sounds like youve got a classic vented crawl space that needs to be encapsulated. Hold the can of foam upright and feed the spraying end into the gap. I have worked storm claims / flood claims for insurance companies and I have seen my share of wet insulation after a flood. The foil facing will act as a vapor barrier as long as its continuous; use sealant to adhere the plastic vapor barrier to the foil facing. Also, try to limit the amount of moist wood (such as damp piles of firewood) on your property. My concern is the way the insulation is held up. The crawlspace will be sealed to prevent condensation. Most instructions for insulating crawlspaces are for people with dirt floors. I didnt insulate the walls because the contractor wanted too much for that step for my liking. How would I add insulation to the finished basement itself? I live in the Chicago land NW area- my house is a old 1955 cottage converted into a 2,600 home. I have a crawlspace over two bedrooms. I just want to move. Once the space is dried to above 50% RH, you can stop running the dehumidifier, and keep the CS sealed up. By the way, we would probably use cellular glass insulation or AirKrete instead of plastic foam, in order to avoid the flame retardants and other environmental negatives that go with plastic foam. Our home is located on the south shore of Long Island,N.Y., about a mile north of the coast. Unfortunately, the same fluffy batt insulation that works well in wood-framed walls performs miserably in crawl spaces. Some installers use a foam board adhesive while others attach the foam board using screws or masonry nails. Since I am not familiar with your area, you may want to contact a local crawl space or insulation company for some advice. Might even double them up to get the extra r value if they are ok. Hi Gary, What should we do? It just makes no sense to me to have the crawl space sealed off and yet it makes no sense to me to have all that nasty vapors floating into the basement area and eventually upstairs. thick) against the crawl space walls. Good luck. If youre serious about improving comfort and avoiding moisture problems, Id recommend installing rigid foam insulation (2-in.-thick extruded polystyrene or SilverGlo(r) panels) against your CS foundation walls (inside the foundation).